LAHAINA >> There are chefs who find their niche and stick to it. Not so Mark Ellman, who made his Maui debut in 1987 with the Pacific Rim-oriented Avalon Restaurant and Bar, followed in 1993 by the fast-food Maui Tacos.

You would think that after selling Maui Tacos years later he’d never have to work again, but he followed up by opening Penne Pasta Cafe; Mala Ocean Tavern, focusing on Mediterranean, Pacific Rim and Latin cuisines; and Honu, serving up seafood and pizza.

More recently he’s returned to his Mexican inspiration, with the full-service restaurant Frida’s Mexican Beach House near Mala and Honu, with a beautiful view of the ocean and Mala Wharf.

What makes it even more pleasant is that it’s about a mile away from the traffic of Lahai­na’s tourism center.

Ellman presents Mexican cuisine with a touch of Pacific Rim and Latin flavors. Crudo selections include Peruvian-influenced tender-poached baby calamari tiradito with aji amarillo ($14), and a chipotle-rich albondigas soup ($9/$11) remade with ahi meatballs.

A two-taco plate ($19) includes such protein choices as confit pork shoulder, ahi chorizo with chile de arbol, beef short rib with sweet-and-spicy tomatillo, and Niihau lamb with guajillo and ancho chilies.

Also offered is a roster of Latin beers and an ample tequila and wine menu.

For all who insist there’s no good Mexican cuisine in Hawaii, you’re looking on the wrong island.

Frida’s is at 1287 Front St. Call 661-1287.