Over Easy is product of couple’s dedication

The dishes served at Kailua’s new Over Easy breakfast and brunch spot are unique, though people lining up to try the new venue might not realize how unique until they are seated.

Owners Nikolaos “Nik” and Jennifer Lobendahn describe their menu as locally influenced contemporary brunch fare. The eggs served were either laid that morning at OK Poultry in Waimanalo, or “at the most are 1 day old,” said Jennifer. You can see and taste the freshness. The eggs are served with soft, runny yolks, unless a customer requests otherwise.

Over Easy’s coffee comes from Kailua-based ChadLou’s Coffee & Tea, made from Maui-grown beans roasted exclusively for the restaurant. “We’re really excited to be working with (the Loben­dahns); they’re our first roasting client,” said ChadLou’s owner, Sheila Rosete.

Nik and his staff hand-make the restaurant’s yogurt, the bacon-cabbage broth served with one of its signature dishes, farmer’s cheese, pickled vegetables, sausage and English muffins, among other items. The sourdough bread is made from a starter that Jen has been feeding for seven years. She brought it to Hawaii from their former home in California, and described her panic when she saw that the wrapped-up starter had been inspected by federal officials. All turned out well.

The bacon-cabbage broth is poured tableside into the Kailua Eggs ($12), Nik’s take on congee, comprising rice, Portuguese sausage and two sunny-side up eggs, garnished with microgreens. Nik described the frustration of trying many types of bacon and different processes with the cabbage to achieve the flavor he sought. His effort has more than paid off.

Most ingredients in the Brunch Bowl ($11) are intended to be mixed and mashed up, a la bibimbap, and the bacon, sourdough toast and watermelon radish slices on the side can be used instead of utensils.

Over Easy’s Custard French Toast far exceeds most restaurant versions, which can wind up thin, deflated and soggy. Punalu‘u sweet bread from Hawa­ii island is soaked in custard, then coated in crushed Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal. A blood-orange creme fraiche adds another dimension of dreaminess. A full order costs $14, while a half-order is $8. The dish takes 15 minutes to bake, but it is worth the wait.

Breakfast is served all day, with lunch added at 11 a.m. Lunch choices include a quinoa and mixed-seed salad, fried chicken sandwich, hamburger and coconut shrimp burger.

The drinks menu also is worth exploring. In addition to the traditional orange juice mimosa, Over Easy offers a sweet-tart and bubbly lilikoi mimosa and a bloody Mary made with fresh tomatoes and wasabi, garnished with pickled vegetables and bacon. Non­alcoholic beverages include a bright and refreshing calamansi limeade.

Opening day at Over Easy ended a hard-fought journey for the Loben­dahns.

The opening was delayed, not just because of the permitting issues that typically plague new businesses, but because the hood exhaust system was outdated and no longer up to code. It was a $9,000 cost they hadn’t budgeted for; they had already poured their life savings into opening the restaurant. The answer was a crowd-funding campaign that exceeded their goal.

Achieving dreams typically requires a series of steps — putting one foot in front of the other, often through the training that lays a foundation for success.

Their journey began in Alan Wong’s culinary empire. The two met while working for the esteemed chef, although Jen quickly realized that cooking was not for her. When it took her a full hour to cut up a pineapple, it was clear that her path did not run through the kitchen, so she transitioned to an office role. At Over Easy Jen works the front of the house while Nik toils in the kitchen. The couple is looking to hire cooks.

Send restaurant news and notes to erika@staradvertiser.com or call 529-4303. Follow her on Twitter @eriKaengle