Who knew that a simple name would draw international attention to a local plate lunch eatery?

“Japanese tourists come in and Japanese magazines cover us because of our name,” said Zachary Lee of his popular Sugoi restaurant. The moniker means “awesome” and “wow” in Japanese.

It turns out that diners of all origins think Lee’s offerings are sugoi, based on the crowds in his Waiakamilo venue. On a recent lunchtime visit, bustling workers couldn’t move fast enough to thin the crowd. As customers left with orders, more came in the door.

Some of the draws: customizable bentos, variations of yakisoba and the restaurant’s beloved garlic chicken.

The menu’s enduring ability to bring in the masses is a point of pride for Lee.

“It’s nice that everyone has their favorite item,” he said happily.

About the business: “In 2000, I had the crazy idea to open a restaurant because my aunty had a bunch of cool recipes,” said Lee.

He opened Sugoi with a partner, who moved on in 2002. He has been the sole owner since. Lee’s brother Ron handles the cooking; he handles the books.

“The garlic chicken is our signature dish, and I believe we were one of the first to serve it,” he said. “Nowadays, everybody’s making it, and everyone’s versions are good. But I’m proud that when people think garlic chicken, they think Sugoi.”

What to order: Chicken plate lunches fill the menu, including regular and spicy versions of the garlic chicken, plus mochiko, sesame, katsu, Korean and grilled garlic chickens — crispy chicken rinds are even served as a side dish.

Bentos, filled with rice, teri beef and a choice of chicken, tonkatsu, salmon, mahimahi, saba or ahi, come in two sizes.

Lee recommends the hamburger steak, noting that his brother is a connoisseur of the dish. Sugoi’s version is thick and juicy and topped with homemade gravy.

Other plates: teri beef, pork cutlet and various fish and curry options. All come with two scoops white or brown rice with choice of macaroni or tossed salad. Substitutions of fried rice or yaki noodles cost extra. Speaking of yaki, they come in soba and udon versions; there’s also chow fun.

For breakfast, the Sugoi Wrap is the star. A three-egg omelet that can include any number of add-ins is wrapped around three scoops of fried rice.

Prices: Most plates are $10-$12, with mini plates at $7.70-$8.25. Noodle dishes run $6.50-$12.65. Sugoi also offers popular menu items as weekly specials to save customers a few dollars. Priciest items: combo bento ($14.75) and two-choice mixed plate ($14.25).

How to order: Besides counter service, call ahead at 841-7984.

Grab and go: The City Square complex is a busy place and the large lots are often crowded, but parking spaces usually can be found.

“Grab and Go” focuses on takeout food, convenience meals and other quick bites. Email ideas to crave@staradvertiser.com.