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PREMIUM SELECTION | MW Restaurant
MW has found a sweet spot in Honolulu dining, with creative takes on local flavors. The room aims for a contemporary, urban feel, with its wall of windows, exposed ceiling vents and hanging bulbs.
At dinner, diners may feel exposed in the chunky, rectangular space, with little demarcation for the tiny bar area or bathroom vestibule. But once plates begin coming to your table, your field of vision will likely narrow anyway, as you are drawn closer to the appealing presentation and fine tastes offered.
Chef Wade Ueoka, known for his ability to craft crowd-pleasing dishes with fine-cuisine flair, has created instant classics with his mochi-crusted fish and spicy, Korean-style Kurobata pork chop. Other offerings include appetizers such as arare-crusted fried Kusshi oysters, in season; or unagi- butterfish arancini embellished with a creamy, light mustard sauce and mirin- accented tsukudani (nori paste), and topped with baby sprouts. The chef’s nightly specials are worth careful attention.
Adding to the restaurant’s appeal is Michelle Ueoka, an alumnus of the French Laundry and Alan Wong’s, who has built a sterling reputation for her desserts. The popular Tropical Fruit Creamsicle “Brulee” is simultaneously rich and refreshing, made with fruit such as mango, dragon fruit and pineapple, as well as lilikoi custard, sorbet, guava chiffon and tapioca pearls.
The restaurant also offers takeout bento lunches and an affordable weekday small-plates menu — options that demonstrate how attuned MW is to the local lifestyle.
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1538 Kapiolani Blvd.; 955-6505, mwrestaurant.com. Lunch, dinner, happy hour, late-night. $$-$$$$
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MAHINA & SUN’S
Ed Kenney’s newest restaurant in the Surfjack Hotel is sure to be a revelation for visitors, while reminding locals of how special this chef’s approach can be.
Fresh, homegrown ingredients are a trademark for Kenney, who’s brought his approach from town to Waikiki. The paiai starter, featuring chewy, pounded taro grilled to a crispy finish and topped with local akule, combines the island flavors of earth and sea.
The feat is repeated with his Grilled He‘e & Watercress Salad starter, featuring lightly charred octopus, fingerling potatoes and house-made ricotta — to die for. And then there’s the monchong (sickle pomfret), with green beans, cherry tomatoes and — slow down, taste this — ulu (breadfruit).
Those who prefer wild boar ragu over rigatoni, pan-roasted chicken or Shinsato pork will also find it on the menu, along with burgers, pizza (topped with Naked Cow fromage blanc, uncured bacon and locally grown veggies) and bold breakfast items (ulu bread, ricotta on toasted Portuguese sweet bread, pork adobo fried rice …). You could live with this menu — reason enough to get a room?
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Surfjack Hotel Waikiki, 412 Lewers St.; 924-5810, surfjack.com. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. $$-$$$
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Kalapawai Cafe
I’m a townie, but Kalapawai Cafe calls me to Kailua again and again to experience its layered pleasures, including the knowledgeable servers and gratifying, sophisticated menu.
Until 5 p.m., it’s a deli serving matter-of-fact but well-conceived items such as breakfast bagels, turkey wraps and salads. At 5 the possibilities expand, and the Mediterranean-inspired menu rewards.
Salads and sides are delicious, and the fire-roasted, Shinsato Farms thick-cut pork chop with pineapple chutney is a must. Fresh fish is also ideally prepared.
With indoor and outdoor seating (no reservations accepted, so there may be a wait) and a rustic setting, Kalapawai Cafe is a reminder that fine dining doesn’t have to include a lot of hype.
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750 Kailua Road; 262-3354; kalapawaimarket.com. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. $- $$$
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