TR’s Fire Grill does well with ‘Local Menu’ dishes

With all the glitz and glamour of the new International Market Place, it might be easy to miss some of the other new things that are happening in Waikiki. One new eatery you’ll want to try around pau hana time is TR Fire Grill, on Kuhio Avenue right behind the shopping center, in the site that Chili’s occupied for decades.

The “TR” in TR Fire Grill refers to its parent company, the well-known rib franchise Tony Roma’s. The company established its first Fire Grill in its home state of Florida, and the Waikiki location is the second.

With a standard Tony Roma’s occupying a site just a few blocks away for decades, one might think it’s overkill to have TR Fire Grill so close, but in fact, TR Fire Grill is very different from Tony Roma’s. To emphasize the point, assistant manager Kelly Nguyen jokingly said the TR now refers to “Taste Re-imagined.”

TR Fire Grill doesn’t even have ribs on its regular menu, not to mention its “Local Hour” menu, which is how it refers to its pau hana offerings. TR and Tony Roma’s are similar, however, in that both serve excellent food and have friendly, professional service.

The experience

TR Fire Grill is a casually elegant spot. It might be a bit formal for dingy beach attire, but it wouldn’t be totally unacceptable either. Brick is one of the main features of the decor, but rather than the red-brick-and-dark-wood trim of a traditional Tony Roma’s, TR Fire Grill’s decor features whitewashed brick and blond wood.

The windows, so long shaded by Chili’s red, green and white awnings, have been uncovered, and additional windows have been created at above-ceiling height, letting in a lot of natural light.

The view isn’t much — the backside of the International Market Place — so you’d might as well turn your focus inward, where there are two dining areas: an elegant bar/dining area room fronting Kuhio Avenue, which with its tall, industrial-tech ceiling has a nice airy feel, and some more cozy spaces behind the bar where individual tables are located. Total seating is about 150 people.

The food

Chef Richard Miller is a local guy who traveled the world with the military before coming home to the restaurant business. Knowing locals and visitors appreciate good food, he’s put a lot of time and effort tweaking the Local Hour menu since TR’s December opening, with good results.

Especially nice was the Black Point Ceviche ($8), a combination of scallops, salmon, tangerine, a bit of coconut smoked jalapeno and bell peppers, garnished with Black Point salt. Miller cold-smokes the salmon and the scallops, placing it in a smoker overnight with no heat. Miller said he’s dabbling with flavors of apple wood and cherry wood, along with traditional hickory. The result is a soft, spongy texture with a trace of smokiness, in a sweet sauce that was vaguely reminiscent of coleslaw.

Also very good was the Kilauea Smoked Ahi Poke ($6), not only because the ahi also had that delightful cold-smoked flavor, but also because of the slightly crunchy texture created by the Asian pear that was mixed in with it.

TR’s Huli Huli Chicken Wings ($8) were pleasant on the taste buds. Sometimes this kind of chicken can be too sweet — it’s basically teriyaki at that point — but Miller has added barbecue sauces and vinegars, giving it a nice tang along with a rich smoky flavor. I also had the Steak Sandwich ($8), which is basically TR’s version of a Philly cheesesteak, and a very good one.

The drink

TR’s Local Hour drink menu is simple. The beer list gives a nod to local brews: Bikini Blonde, Big Swell IPA, Pineapple Mana Wheat and Pau Hana Pilsner, all for $6.

From the two handcrafted cocktails offered, I tried the Fire Grill Mule, which was a nice twist on the traditional Moscow Mule, with some lemon and rhubarb bitters along with the traditional ginger and vodka. They also offer a Barrel-Aged Margarita flavored with agave and lime, which will be worth a try. Both are $8.

The verdict

TR Fire Grill is definitely worth a visit for a light snack after a day at the beach or, better yet, before evening entertainment. The fare on its Local Hour menu is really perfect for the occasion — light, tasty and affordable.

There are fries (and edamame) on the Local Hour menu, but otherwise they’ve avoided the plethora of fried food found on many happy-hour menus. You won’t go away feeling loaded down, although you can if you then order up the awesome “wonut” desert (small, circular waffles drizzled in melted chocolate). Your taste buds, however, will be plenty satisfied.