Beachy keen happy hour awaits at renovated Waikiki resort bar

Kuhio Beach Grill isn’t set up to be a hoppin’ happy hour destination — instead, it’s a dignified spot to sample finer offerings from the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort. During the day’s golden hours, it’s also a good place to savor a cold drink from a perch overlooking the beach. Diners and drinkers can take advantage of pau hana specials on drinks and draft beer from any seat, but the hotel restaurant’s tasty small plates menu is available only at the bar, which seats 15 people comfortably. If you’re in need of beachside refreshment, and there’s a seat available, this chill location is a good choice.

The experience

Kuhio Beach Grill was newly refreshed and configured to encourage socialization when it opened on the ground floor of the Marriott in January. It’s open and bright, with a central bar, decorated in neutral tones, and accentuated by floor-to-ceiling windows on Waikiki Beach.

The site is still primarily a dining room — but don’t feel shy about pulling up a seat at the bar. That’s where it’s at if you’re looking to have a bite at pau hana.

From my spot at the bar, with cocktail in hand, I was able to watch the light change as the sun lowered over the ocean. Isn’t that what happy hour should be all about?

Live music overlaps happy hour in the afternoons on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and that’s a nice bonus. Note too that the Marriott validates for four hours of parking with your purchase at Kuhio Beach Grill. That gives you time to take a walk on that beach after you’ve finished up.

The food

I sampled the featured small plates on the bar menu, specialties at the restaurant. They were winners.

The highlight was White Wine Steamed Clams, served in an oversized bowl with bread for dipping ($17). The broth, flavored with white wine and garlic butter, was delicious, and the clams were garnished generously with tomato, Hamakua mushroom and Portuguese sausage. This could easily be a meal in itself.

Also worth savoring: the Crispy Chinatown Pork Belly plate ($13). This is a variation on the crispy pork chunks you can get from Chinatown vendors, sliced for sharing and made even more tasty with a whiskey plum sauce.

If you’re looking for a healthy choice, the Organic Quinoa Salad (gluten-free, $16) is a good pick. It’s made with macadamia nuts, locally grown baby kale, Maui onion and papaya-seed vinaigrette.

There’s a cheeseburger ($18) on the menu, too, but it’s standard fare.

The drink

Kuhio Beach Grill has placed an emphasis on tasty bourbon and rye whiskeys, using the liquor to flavor some of its specialty plates and offering flights ($12 for three tastes) in different combinations, such as By the Mash, with Templeton Rye, Maker’s Mark “46” and Jim Beam White Ghost. I’m a whiskey drinker, so this is a clear attraction.

During happy hour, the bar offered a customized Old Fashioned ($8, normally $12). Patrons could choose between Knob Creek bourbon or rye, and between orange, cherry, black walnut or classic angostura bitters. I went with the traditional drink; it was bracing and skillfully mixed. My friend opted for a flavored bitters, which added a bit of extra sweetness to the drink. Both satisfied.

The other happy hour cocktail was a Pink Guava Fizz ($8, normally $12), made with Aviation gin, guava, cranberry and soda. It was very refreshing — a nice blend of sweet and sour.

Draft beer is discounted to $6 during pau hana; it’s normally $9. House wines are $7, usually $9.

The verdict

Pau hana at the Kuhio Beach Grill serves a specific purpose: It allows for enjoying a better-than-average beer or cocktail and tasty bites while keeping an eye on the beach. If you’re in Waikiki and that’s your goal, drop by the bar.