The drive to Ko Olina from town via H-1 might not be the most pleasant experience during commuting hours on a weekday, but once you take the resort exit, you feel as if you’re on vacation. Ko Olina has a number of new pau hana dining options available to provide a minivacation on any given afternoon, and they now include La Hiki Kitchen at the Four Seasons Resort Oahu.

The experience

Oahu’s first Four Seasons, with 371 rooms and five dining and drinking options, opened last summer, and is by the first lagoon. La Hiki Kitchen features American Continental dining with a local flair by Molokai-born chef Jobbie Domenden. During happy hour the special is simple: a burger and milkshake for $20.

So, do you really need to visit a luxury resort for a burger? The answer is yes, if only to experience this relaxing and elegant setting by the beach.

Sink down into the cushions and blue-striped pillows beneath umbrellas at the outdoor lanai directly fronting the round serenity pool at La Hiki, framed by palms, while waiting for your order. The service is very professional.

You might want to come hungry: La Hiki offered a complimentary basket of bacon cheese scones served with creme fraiche while we were waiting for our order.

As with most resorts at Ko Olina, parking is valet-only, and validated for three hours while dining at La Hiki.

The resort now offers a monthly Art Walk on certain Fridays featuring unique works by local artists. The Na Pa‘ahana Trio plays on Fridays on a stage that looks like it’s floating on the pool with the ocean as a backdrop. On Saturdays there are rotating Hawaii musicians, including Alx Kawakami and Duncan Osorio. The music drifts softly into the air and does not overpower or mar the serenity of the place.

It would be ideal to visit for happy hour and then browse the offerings of the monthly Art Walk gallery and reception at Hokule‘a Lounge afterward. The next one is scheduled for 5 to 7 p.m. July 21, featuring Hawaii artists Kris Goto, Steven Kean, Jay Greiner, Andrew McHowell, Jan Tetsutani and Lauren Brown. Check with the resort for more dates at www.fourseasons.com.

The food

There are three choices of burgers for the Shake It Up special. All are very different.

The chef’s special is probably the top choice for burger lovers, with the classic combination of beef, aged Gouda and bacon jam, stacked high with red cabbage and pickles. It’s served on a brioche bun, with a side salad of butter lettuce greens (regular $27).

Other choices include a fried chicken sandwich with maple Dijon sauce, lettuce and dill pickles (regular $26), and a veggie burger made of an alii mushroom and beet patty with goat cheese, arugula and mint yogurt (regular $25).

The drink

For milk shakes (regular $12), you have the classics including strawberry and French vanilla, or miso butterscotch and Oreo cookie. Spike it with Bulleit Bourbon, Bailey’s Irish Cream or Old Lahaina Rum for an extra $6. You might as well, since it’s pau hana!

All the milkshakes are dressed up with toppings that make this a true dessert. The Oreo shake came with whipped cream sprinkled with real Oreo crumbs — and was very rich.

A selection of local bottled beers are also available, though not discounted for happy hour. It’s $9 for a 12-ounce bottle of Maui Brewing Co.’s Bikini Blonde and $17 for a big bottle of Lanikai Brewery’s high-alcohol IPA or Porter brews.

The verdict

This is probably more than you would pay for a burger and a milkshake at a local joint, but by Four Seasons standards it’s a milkshake giveaway.

Part of the value is in the getaway to Ko Olina, with the resort’s ocean views. It is worth the time and expense if you can savor the coast-side view, live music and art, in addition to the all-American meal. Avoiding traffic is the best way to go, so start early and make an evening of it.