What is the best way to learn about another culture? Glenn Silva believes it is by hanging out in the kitchen. When this retired Maryknoll School French teacher learned the language in Paris, Toulouse and Provence, he would talk with the lady of the house or her staff in the kitchen. It was from these folks that he learned the intricacies of French culture, including the secrets of the cuisine.

As a result, the Kakaako resident discovered a killer French bistro dish that wows his Hawaii friends.

Silva’s beef Burgundy is not complicated, but it is not a shortcut dish. To bring out the richness of the beef, wine and herbs, it takes three days to execute.

“One day is for the shopping and the prep work, two is cooking and the third is to skim off the fat and gradually reheat the main course,” the Francophile explains.

The planning is worth it. This beef stew is full-bodied and rich from using an entire bottle of red wine.

“Why not make it authentic by using an wine from the Burgundy region of France, like Louis Jadot, which you can find for about $20 in Hawaii,” Silva says.

The wine is first used to marinate the chunks of chuck steak with thyme, parsley and whole garlic cloves. Then the marinade is cooked with beef stock to flavor the stew.

He starts the process by simmering salt pork in oil until brown. Next, he sears large pieces of seasoned, floured chuck. His tip: It’s better to add flour, which acts as a thickener, at this stage because a slurry made of cornstarch and water that would be added at the finish doesn’t always mix in well.

He says that the most common mistake is to rush the browning of the meat.

“Each piece needs to be thoroughly browned, so you need to cook the meat in batches. Don’t be impatient,” he urges.

The seasonings are traditional. Salt pork, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, onion, tomato paste and beef stock (homemade always preferred) are simmered together for 2-1/2 hours to merge into the perfectly flavorful stew. Small whole white onions, called petite onions, are added for a contrast in color.

Silva also adds carrots carved in what is called a baton shape. But he knows that some in France would criticize him for that addition.

“When you add carrots to the boeuf a la sauce bourguignonne, some would say that now you must call it a daube,” he explains. Whatever the dish is labeled, he prefers the combination with carrots.

In addition, he thinly slices cremini or white mushrooms to add another texture to the stew.

“In France the white mushrooms are called Champignon de Paris. Isn’t that poetic?” Professional chefs might prefer to quarter the fungi, but Silva likes to keep this dish as a common bistro offering, not haute cuisine. “It’s a man-pleaser,” he says.

This recipe easily serves 10, poured over buttered noodles or pasta of any shape. Silva takes it to another level by adding caraway seeds to the noodles, and the earthy spice adds another facet to the dish.

A Kailua High School graduate, Silva studied at the University of Paris and earned a master’s degree in French literature, specializing in novelist Marcel Proust. While living in France, he mastered the language and fell in love with the culture. Through this one dish, Silva captures the essence of the country.

Bon appetit!

—

Glenn Silva’s Beef Burgundy
(Boeuf a la Sauce Bourguignonne)

• 4 pounds quality beef chuck roast, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 bottle red wine
• Several sprigs EACH fresh thyme and parsley (flat-leaf or curly), divided
• 6 cloves garlic
• 1 to 2 tablespoons salt
• 1 to 2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
• 1/2 cup flour, plus more as needed
• 3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, plus more as needed, divided
• 5 ounces salt pork, cubed
• 1 small Maui or other sweet onion, minced
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 3 cups beef stock (homemade if possible)
• 1 bay leaf
• 5 carrots, cleaned but not peeled, cut into 1-1/2-by-1/2-inch sticks
• 10 to 15 cremini or white mushrooms, thinly sliced
• 4 tablespoons butter, divided
• 8 ounces petite onions (fresh or frozen)
• 1 pound noodles or pasta
• 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
• Parsley, for garnish (optional)

Day 1: In large bowl, combine cubed beef with wine, half of thyme and parsley, and garlic. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and marinate in refrigerator overnight.

Day 2: Carefully remove plastic wrap and dry beef pieces on a rack placed on a tray. Retain marinade, including garlic, but discard thyme and parsley. Pat dry beef with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Coat each piece thoroughly in flour.

Over medium to medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons oil in large Dutch oven. Add salt pork and brown. Retain oil and add floured beef in batches so each piece touches the bottom of the pot. Brown every piece thoroughly, then place on platter. Add more oil as needed. Do not crowd pan or rush this step.

Return all beef to the pan and add minced onion, tomato paste and garlic from the marinade. Stir and brown.

Add marinade and marinade drippings from the beef. Add beef stock and bring to a boil. Add remaining thyme and parsley, plus bay leaf. Reduce heat to simmer, and cover. Simmer 2-1/2 hours, stirring occasionally (or bake covered in oven at 325 degrees). Remove from heat, cool and refrigerate overnight.

Day 3: Skim and discard fat. Gently bring stew to a simmer and continue cooking for 1/2 hour. Add salt and pepper to taste.

In separate pot, boil carrots for 8 minutes, then add to stew and continue to cook for 1/2 hour.

Saute mushrooms in 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil until browned, then add petite onions and simmer 5 minutes. Add mushrooms, onions and the liquid into stew, and continue to cook for 1/2 hour.

Boil noodles according to directions, add 3 tablespoons butter and top with caraway seeds.

Plate beef Burgundy over buttered noodles and serve immediately. Serves 8-10.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (assumes 750 ml red wine, 1 tablespoon salt and minus 5 tablespoons skimmed off fat): 870 calories, 47 g fat, 18 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 1,250 mg sodium, 50 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 46 g protein.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “The Chinese Kitchen,” is fascinated by old-fashioned food. Contact her at 275-3004 or via Instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.