Kauai’s Hanamaulu Cafe closed in 2014 and some devotees are still in mourning.

The restaurant, built in the style of a Japanese tea house, had been a place of everyday dining and special occasions on the island since the 1920s.

The fried chicken was a favorite omiyage carried from island to island. “Whenever someone in our family visited Kauai they would always bring home a box from Hanamaulu Cafe,” wrote Jason Sugibayashi. He is on the hunt for a recipe so he can try to re-create the memories.

Konohiki Seafoods, next door to the former Hanamaulu property, sells chicken made according to the proprietary Hanamaulu recipe. A few plate-lunch places around the island have their own versions, to the point that the combo of ginger and fried chicken might be considered a Kauai “thing.”

Mark Oyama, a chef-instructor at Kauai Community College and the owner of Mark’s Place, a popular takeout restaurant in Lihue, has made it, and helped me with this version of a recipe.

The chicken is marinated in a sweet, gingery mixture that gives it an almost syrupy quality under the crispiness.

The high sugar content helps make the chicken crisp, Oyama said. “When it first comes out of the fryer, it’s not crispy, as the sugars are still hot and soft,” he said. “Once the sugars cool it gets crispy.”

Plain flour is enough for the coating, as the marinade is strong, he added. He fries in 350-degree oil. “Not too hot or it will burn.”

Hanamaulu Cafe-Style Fried Ginger Chicken

• 2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs
• Vegetable oil for deep-frying
• Flour, to coat chicken
• >> Marinade:
• 1-2 tablespoons grated ginger
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup shoyu
• 1 teaspoon vinegar
• 1 teaspoon mirin, brandy or whiskey
• 2 teaspoons sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon oyster sauce

Combine marinade ingredients and pour over chicken pieces. Marinate overnight in refrigerator.

Heat oil to 350 degrees.

Remove chicken from marinade, shaking off excess. Dredge in flour. Make a cut in each piece near the bone, halfway through. Fry 10-15 minutes, until brown and cooked through.

Drain on paper towels. Chicken will get more crisp as it cools. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 520 calories, 24 g total fat, 6 g saturated fat, 140 mg cholesterol, 2,300 mg sodium, 30 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 25 g sugar, 43 g protein.

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