Sweet, sticky ice cakes were a part of childhood for so many of us, yet I hadn’t given them a thought in at least 20 years.
An email from a correspondent named Elaine brought back memories of those homemade Popsicles. “A family friend who passed away used to make it with evaporated milk (I think) but I never got around to ask her for the recipe,” Elaine wrote.
The formula for ice cakes is pretty basic: water, sugar, evaporated milk and syrup of the type used to make shave ice or big batches of juice. Most local-style recipes specify good old Malolo.
Elaine’s friend, though, used fresh mango. “Our friend had a couple of mango trees so she gave us the good fruit and pureed (I think) the less-than-perfect ones and poured the mixture into ice cube trays.”
A HIATUS FOR “BY REQUEST”
I will be spending the next few weeks enmeshed in the production of our annual Ilima restaurant guide, and so “By Request” will be on hiatus. I’ll meet you back here on Oct. 11 and in time to start figuring out some holiday cooking ideas. Look for the Ilima guide on Oct. 8. In the meantime, if you have specific holiday recipe requests — for Halloween through New Year’s — send them on.
The use of fresh mango turns the treat into something more adult and more natural. It’s also a great use of overripe or bruised fruit. The result is not a super- hard Popsicle, but more of a firm sorbet, easy to bite, with a clean, fresh, mango flavor.
You can make ice cakes in anything from ice cube trays to fancy molds, but the absolute best concept is to use small paper cups such as Dixie cups. Portion size (about 3 ounces) is perfect, and to serve, simply loosen the sides with a butter knife, then squeeze the cup and the ice cake will pop up for nibbling. No bowls, no spoons, easy cleanup. Great for serving to kids, although you’ll probably have to wipe some sticky hands afterward.
On the other hand, these fresh-fruit cakes are good enough to pass for a more sophisticated sorbet. Unmold into a pretty dish and garnish with colorful diced fruit and maybe a dab of whipped cream. No one will suspect its simple origins.
FRESH MANGO ICE CAKE
- 1 cup mango puree (see note)
- 1/2 cup evaporated milk
- >> Sugar syrup:
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 cup water
To make syrup: Dissolve sugar in water, stirring until water is clear.
Combine puree with milk, then add 1/2 cup syrup and taste. Gradually add more until it reaches a sweetness you like. Pour mixture into an ice cube tray or small cups. Freeze until solid.
Makes 6 to 8 Dixie-cup servings, depending on amount of sugar syrup added.
Note: To get 1 cup puree, you’ll need about 1-1/2 pounds of fresh mango. Peel and seed the fruit and cut into cubes (you’ll have about 2 cups). Puree in a blender or food processor until smooth.
Nutritional information unavailable.
Write By Request, Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.
