Some good ground beef and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper is all you need to make a fine burger most days. But on some other days, you might want a burger with a bit more zing, more interest, more panache.

Some days might call for a deviled burger.

Shallots, mustard, chili sauce, hot sauce — just a little bit of these ingredients turn plain burgers into “can I get this recipe?” burgers. If you are looking for more heat, just increase the amount of dry mustard and/or chili powder.

Note that this recipe calls for pure ancho chili powder, available in the spice section of most supermarkets. This is different from a general chili powder, sometimes called chili blend or chili seasoning, which contains a mix of ground chilies, garlic, cumin, oregano and maybe additional spices. But if that blend is what you have on hand, it will still make a burger with portfolio.

These burgers, like all burgers, can easily be made into cheeseburgers, using whatever cheese you like, from cheddar to Emmental to provolone to blue cheese to a good old slice of American cheese.

To expedite cooking on a weeknight, line up your spice jars in the morning, with a measuring spoon. Then it will just be a matter of scooping and mixing when it’s time to make the burgers.

Instead of ketchup on top, you might also try a bit of the chili sauce. And a slice of sharp onion keeps the flavor ratcheting upward.

Bring it, you say? Oh, it’s on.

Deviled Burgers

• 2 tablespoons chili sauce (such as Sriracha)
• 2 tablespoons finely minced shallot
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• 1 tablespoon jarred horseradish, squeezed well to remove excess liquid
• 1 tablespoon dry mustard
• 2 teaspoons ancho chili powder
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 2 pounds ground chuck (80 percent lean)
• Sliced or crumbled cheese, if desired
• 6 split burger buns

Toppings: ketchup, mustard, chili sauce, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles

Place the chili sauce, shallot, parsley, horseradish, mustard, chili powder, salt and pepper in a bowl and stir to combine. Add meat. Use your hands to lightly but thoroughly mix seasonings into meat. Divide beef into 6-8 even portions, then form into patties about 3/4-inch thick. Press a small indentation into the middle of each patty.

Place the patties on grill and cook 3 to 4 minutes on each side. During the last minute of cooking, place cheese over burgers, if desired. Also place buns on grill to toast lightly, if desired.

Serve burgers on buns, with toppings as desired. Makes 6-8 burgers.

Approximate nutritional information, per burger: 520 calories, 32 g total fat, 12 g saturated fat, 107 mg cholesterol, 668 mg sodium, 24 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 31 g protein