High surf warning in effect for most islands; Cool, dry weather to return

A growing northwest swell promises dangerously large surf for the smaller islands as cool, dry weather makes a brief return.

A large northwest swell will grow today, peaking tonight into Wednesday, according to officials at the National Weather Service. A high surf warning is in effect for the north and west shores of Kauai County, Oahu and Molokai, and the north-facing shore of Maui while a high surf advisory is scheduled to go into effect at 6 p.m. for the north-facing shores of Hawaii island. Both run through 6 p.m. Thursday.

Forecasters expect surf along north-facing shores in warning areas up to reach 20 to 30 feet this afternoon, growing to 30 to 40 feet tonight through Wednesday. The leeward side of Oahu should see surf of 14 to 24 feet this afternoon, growing to 20 to 30 feet tonight through Wednesday.

Hawaii island’s north-facing shores are expected to be pounded by surf up to 16 to 24 feet tonight through Wednesday, weather officials said.

Beachgoers should “expect ocean water surging and sweeping across beaches, creating the potential for some overwash onto vulnerable coastal roadways,” weather officials said in a bulletin. “Powerful longshore and rip currents will be present at most beaches.”

Although weather officials expect a band of showers to move down the island chain today — reaching Kauai by noon and Oahu this afternoon — cool, dry northerly winds are forecast to follow.

The comfortable sleeping weather should last through Wednesday.