Burgers, beer are best bets at Basalt

With a range of new venues open for shopping, eating and listening to music in Waikiki, I’ve been drawn to the district pretty frequently of late. And so I’ve been walking by Duke’s Lane Market & Eatery, a food court opening up to Kuhio Avenue, now and again.

It’s a clean, attractive spot, with full-service restaurant Basalt holding down pride of placement. So I checked out Basalt’s happy hour.

THE EXPERIENCE

This room feels pretty good. Entering from Kuhio, you’ll find Basalt behind the food-court-style eating area of Duke’s Lane Market, with a long bar delineating the space. The style is contemporary, with polished steel chairs and a long, wood-plank table for a larger group behind that, along with high-top tables and more casual seating just outside on a no-frills lanai next to Duke’s Alley.

Basalt is meant to offer a more upscale eating experience for those ducking in from Duke’s Alley, and the regular menu may be great, but the pupu menu fell short.

THE FOOD

I tried a variety of the pupu offered for happy hour at Basalt, and here’s the bottom line: You’re really best off going with the hamburgers here; they will meet expectations and fuel you for more cruising around Waikiki.

The burgers, made with local beef and topped with the expected tomato, lettuce, ketchup and mayo, are also an attraction because they will cost you a mere $5 during pau hana. Served on a soft bun, they’re a decent size and will likely serve as adequate filling for an after-hours snack. If you want a few bites more, add a side of fries for just $2.

Flatbread pizza, $7 to $9, is another option. We tried the “Yes, No Meat” veggie offering ($7), and it was fine, if not distinguished.

Other dishes from the pau hana menu didn’t fare as well.

The crispy fried chicken with adobo sauce ($9 for three pieces) smelled so good coming to the table — savory, with a tang of vinegar rising from the spicy dip — but once bitten into, was rather dry and tasteless.

An intriguing small plate of Pork Belly Buns ($8 for two) with pickled daikon and carrot, served on charcoal-colored bao buns, had me thinking of a juicy, meaty bite complemented by the wrapping, but the meat was somewhat limp, and the bun was tasteless.

A charcuterie plate didn’t live up to its name. Whereas diners are accustomed to receiving thick slices of prepared meats, a pate and pot of mustard, this plate included two slices of soft, sliced French bread that had nothing to spread on it — not even mustard! — a couple of chunks of pickled beet, and sliced, salty meat that might have come out of a deli case. I think this was supposed to come with olive oil for the bread, but that didn’t make it to our table. Pass.

Poke, on the other hand, was fresh and delicious. It seemed even more precious because the serving was tiny — a small teacup’s worth — at $8. I loved every bite, but a happy hour order is barely enough for one.

THE DRINK

I had a Moscow Mule for $6. It was tangy and tasty, not too strong. Well drinks are also $6.

Pau hana pricing will get you a Bud or Coors Light for $3, Kona Brewing Co. beers on tap for $4, or house wines for $5.

THE VERDICT

If a bargain burger and drink are on your agenda, you’ll be happy with this location. But I wouldn’t beeline it here for this basic choice unless already nearby.