Baku Waikiki offers stylish fun, intriguing cuisine

Baku Waikiki is an elegant restaurant featuring Japanese cuisine at the International Market Place. As with all the eateries at the redeveloped Market Place, it’s got a fancy, classy feel, but with an eclectic decor that provides an amusing touch to the restaurant experience.

While this playfulness is often found in Japanese culture, the first Baku was established in Charlotte, North Carolina, as a robota and yakitori establishment serving “authentic” but “not traditional” Japanese cuisine.

THE EXPERIENCE

Baku is located in a somewhat out-of-the-way corner of the Market Place. Most of the eateries there are towards the back at the top of the escalators and elevators, so you see them first. You have to walk makai past those places on the Diamond Head side of the Market Place to get to this restaurant.

Once you find it, the location is pleasing, with outdoor seating overlooks Kalakaua Avenue, so you get a nice view of the goings-on there, and treehouse-like placement beside the shopping center’s historic banyan tree.

In Japanese culture, a Baku is a spirit that eats dreams and nightmares, so it’s not surprising that the restaurant has a fantastical, somewhat mystical atmosphere.

Parasols hanging upside from the ceiling give the place a festive look. There’s an oceanic theme throughout, with the ceiling and walls painted a deep blue, and a huge, blowup whale hanging over head as you enter. A wall-hanging of huge eyes create the impression that you’re in an aquarium.

There are also fish-themed decorations on the walls, some very realistic and some rather abstract. But then, hanging above the window to the kitchen is the bronze head of a steer. It’s to remind you that meat as well as fish are on the menu.

The eclectism extends to the furniture, which ranges from industrial tech metal tables to rustic wagon-wheel-like tables, to slices of huge tree trunks and sleek Danish modern.

THE FOOD

This is Waikiki, and the new, fashionable Market Place, so expect prices at Baku to reflect that. You don’t get a lot for your money, but it’s good.

I especially liked the Steam Buns. These are Chinese-style buns, served with either crispy chicken or pork belly garnished with hoisin, pickled chilies, cilantro and sweet chili glaze. I’m a big fan of hoisin and love it on duck with nothing more than a bit of scallion to finish off the taste and give it texture. At Baku, though, the extra flavorings brought out a richer, almost molasses-like quality to the dish, which was very intriguing. The only issue was the slightly-larger-than-bite-sized portion ($3 each), which didn’t last long.

I also had a skewer of sake-glazed chicken wings, served with lime and sansho salt (one skewer with two wings for $4, regular price $9 for two skewers). This was similarly tasty, perfectly cooked with a juicy inside and a slightly crisp outside, and a subtle flavor that was brought out nicely by the lime and salt.

More filling was the Chef’s Roll of the Day ($14). On my visit, Baku served up a spicy gokujo tuna roll (regularly $16), with schichimi pepper, spicy mayonnaise and a chili thread garnish that gave it a satisfyingly subtle crunchiness.

THE DRINK

During happy hour, beer, cocktails and wine by the glass are discounted by 20 percent. I had a Tokidoki Cocktail ($8 happy hour, $10 regular) — a very refreshing blend of Hanson of Sonoma cucumber vodka, muddled cucumber, nigori sake, peach nectar and housemade honey sour pomegranate juice.

THE VERDICT

Baku’s chef, Joseph Rose, earned a Michelin star in Chicago, so one can rightfully expect creative cuisine. On that count, Baku delivers. I think it’s a bit pricey in comparison to the portions offered, but the tastes are intriguing, and higher costs are typical at Waikiki restaurants.

If you don’t mind spending a bit extra for something much better than the norm, Baku is worth a visit.