Izakaya Nonbei delivers the classics with taste, value

For well over a decade, Izakaya Nonbei has been a cult pau-hana favorite for locals and well-traveled tourists alike.

Now there are a number of izakayas, or Japanese pubs, in Hawaii that all serve shareable food on small plates and beer by the pitcher.

Does Izakaya Nonbei still earn its legendary status? We went to find out.

THE EXPERIENCE

Izakaya Nonbei is tucked away around the corner from busy Kapahulu Avenue. You could easily miss its understated signage, but its wooden doors with cloth curtains slide open to transport you to a pleasant Japanese hideaway.

Inside, there’s wooden seating around low tables with a family-style, comfortable vibe. When we came at 5 p.m. it was relatively empty, but the restaurant is small enough to fill up fast — it’d be a good idea to make reservations during dinner hours. (For night owls, it’s also worthwhile to note a second late-night happy hour from 9 to 10 p.m.)

Soft lighting and detailed decorative touches, such a wall of painted sakura blossoms, all contribute to the relaxed, artistic atmosphere. Complete with excellent food and attentive service, it all adds up to an exceptional izakaya experience.

THE FOOD

The food is all carefully crafted, well-balanced and high-quality — and happy-hour prices make it all more than worthwhile. Unlike many other pau-hana spots, the menu offers a number of light, fresh options.

There’s a sashimi plate, with ahi, hamachi and salmon ($15). We also tried the spicy salmon maki ($8), and it was devoured by all.

The crab avocado salad ($5) was exceptional, with a bright, fresh yuzu dressing and a large enough portion size to feed three.

For vegetarians there are a number of options, including hiyayakko (cold tofu, $3), edamame ($3) and age gobo (fried burdock root, $3).

That being said, the menu is not all virtuous: the tori kara, or fried chicken ($4), is indulgent and also flavorful, crisp, and satisfying.

All in all, the food is well-priced for the quality ingredients used.

If you stray off the happy hour menu, you won’t be disappointed, either. The miso butterfish was succulent and flavorful, and the kakuni (braised pork belly) was so rich that it left a friend sipping the sauce out of the bowl.

Izakaya Nonbei serves up the traditional foods you came in craving, but with such attention to detail that they’re better than you remember.

THE DRINK

I found it refreshing to have a beer with this food — it’s filling, but won’t leave you full of regret.

Izakaya Nonbei also has an extensive sake list with a variety of premium offerings. Its happy-hour menu is serviceable but considerably pared-down: a house hot sake, Bud, Bud Light, Coors Light and Asahi on draft by the glass or the pitcher.

We opted for the house hot sake ($11 by the carafe), which was tasty to my (admittedly untrained) tongue. For those with more refined palates for sake, the regular menu offers a whole world of options to explore.

THE VERDICT

In a world crowded with restaurants trying to outdo each other with the latest thing, Izakaya Nonbei sticks to the classics, and does them well. Its unpretentious, intimate environment creates a great hideaway to unwind, and it has just the relaxed atmosphere to turn co-workers into friends.

With great food and attentive service, this izakaya stands the test of time.