New Rainbow Drive-In in Kalihi earns seal of approval

For food enthusiasts looking for the latest artisanal, organic, avant garde thing to love, the humble plate lunch is the antithesis of avocado toast.

Yet Rainbow Drive-In, a mecca of the mixed plate for 57 years, is stronger than ever. In May the company opened its first franchise in Kalihi, the familiar Rainbow logo now hanging over the corner of North School and Houghtailing streets.

“Local, small, authentic places are just the rage,” said Jim Gusukuma, vice president of the original Rainbow in Kapahulu. “It’s huge all over the country.”

Rainbow has become a magnet for tourists in search of local flavors. With four service windows open, the lines snake around tables packed with diners, and parking is scarce — “we were pretty maxed out,” said Gusukuma.

“We were at a crossroads. We could have limited it (to one) or open up other branches,” he said.

That’s when a partnership headed by master franchiser Ted Davenport offered to expand Rainbow to Kalihi, to give local people an outlet for Rainbow fare without having to deal with the crowds in Kapahulu.

The newly formed Rainbros Hawaii Restaurants is headed by Davenport, owner of the Hawaii Subway franchises, and the Gyu-Kaku Japanese BBQ and Ruby Tuesday chains; Rick Nakashima, co-owner and operator of Ruby Tuesday; Lyle Matsuoka and Charles Jewitt. Their long-term plans are to open Rainbows in Kapolei and Maui.

Nakashima said Rainbow is a good business model and has “an iconic name; the most known plate lunch in the world.” And he has always loved the mixed plate, the top-selling combination of teriyaki beef, boneless chicken and fish.

Duplicating Rainbow’s dishes wasn’t just a matter of following recipes, Gusukuma said. Only a few cooks had been entrusted with the recipes for some 30 years.

“There’s a certain amount of art to it, that’s why it’s called the art of cooking.”

A particular challenge was adapting cooking times and temperatures — which were based on the vintage gas stoves in Kapahulu — to Kalihi’s brand-new electric stoves and grills.

But Gusukuma gives the Kalihi branch his seal of approval — “I’m happy with it; it represents us well.”

The new location employs 35 to 40 mostly young adults, and finding the right crew in a tight labor market was difficult, Nakashima said. But after hiring Sean Santiago as director of operations in June, “I’m really proud of where we’re at now,” he said.

Santiago is wearing two hats, as he is still supervising Gyu-Kaku, which will open later in the two-story building anchored by the Kalihi Rainbow Drive-In.

He said he improved training for the inexperienced staffers, having them work closely with the Kapahulu cooks.

“People really come for the nostalgia of Rainbow Drive-In. … They love it,” Santiago said. The location is more convenient, prices are comparable and there’s plenty of parking, he said.

Most customers know exactly what they want and order their favorites: the mixed plate, chili dog or boneless chicken with gravy. And everyone wants a scoop of creamy macaroni salad — few opt for the coleslaw — to cap off the classic combo.

Every morning at 4 a.m., Santiago’s workers arrive to make 10 gallons of gravy (used on three dishes), and huge vats of chili — it’s “unbelievable” how much they serve, he said. The gravy is so popular, kids from Damien Memorial School nearby order French fries with a side of gravy instead of chili or ketchup.

“This is simple fast food, good down-home cooking,” said Santiago, who comes from the neighborhood. “They grew up with it.”

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