For most restaurants the decision to add lunch or dinner service is a matter of making sure all aspects of an initial launch are running smoothly before tackling extra responsibilities.

That was not the case at Pai Honolulu, where adding lunch service required waiting for chef Kevin Lee to perfect the art of bread-making.

He takes the craft of creating artisanal cuisine seriously and wasn’t about to offer sandwiches unless he could bake the bread himself, given his dedication to using local ingredients and making all meal components from scratch.

He started reading and experimenting with bread-baking last fall and now offers sandwiches using his sourdough and ciabatta breads, as well as a potato bun for a beef burger ($19) dry-aged for 90 days in-house.

A sourdough loaf also serves as a bowl for a delicious cream of broccoli soup ($15).

Other highlights of the lunch menu include a maitake risotto ($17) with seasonal vegetables; cioppino ($19) of Manila clams, halibut and fingerling potatoes in a saffron broth, served with sourdough; and smoked brisket ciabatta sandwich ($16).

Lee also started the process of making bresaola (cured beef), merguez (lamb sausage) and fennel salami about four months ago, so his charcuterie sandwich will soon feature his own creations.

Lunch is served 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays to Fridays; dinner is served Tuesdays to Saturdays. Pai Honolulu is in the Harbor Court Atrium, 55 Merchant St. Call 744-2531 or visit paihonolulu.com.