There are a few inanimate objects that I adore almost as much as my children. They always are up to the task, they never talk back, and they don’t quit. One of those is the quiet workhouse of my kitchen: the cast iron skillet.

I used to buy a new nonstick pan every year, but after about two weeks, frying eggs became a problem. After six months I’d begin to doubt any nonstick coating was left, and even worse, I’d shudder to think that I had been ingesting that substance.

Now, give me a well-seasoned cast-iron pan over any other. It heats evenly, doesn’t warp, provides good browning and crust, and is as nonstick as you need, as long as you aren’t burning the surface. Use it for anything, except crepes. I just need to work on my arm strength to swivel the pan around. (Hey, this cast iron could sub as an exercise dumbbell.)

I use the cast iron for breads, in the oven or on the stove top, for casseroles, desserts, stir fries, shallow frying — and giant cookies. I’m a fan of individual cookies, but the skillet cookie is a thing of beauty. Cookies in my cast iron rival any brownie. They are as gooey as a brownie, and so lovely shared straight from the skillet with spoons. The edges are crisp and well-browned, and nothing sticks to the pan.

There are three stages to this cookie. Right out of the oven and cooled for about 10 minutes, it’s more like cookie goop, which satisfies some. Throw a scoop of ice cream on the top and it’s like cookie sauce for your sundae.

After 20-30 minutes, if you can possibly wait that long, it’s a warm brownie texture, and gets a little firmer after an hour or so. My favorite, if you are smart enough to make a whole pan for yourself, is to let it cool, then store it in the fridge until the next day. Then you have a thick and chewy cookie bar with the most satisfying bite.

You decide which stage you prefer and how much self-control you have. Choose whatever mix-ins you like. Some might like cranberry and others white chocolate. I also recommend Hershey’s milk-chocolate bars, cut up, and mini marshmallows. But my preference is a semisweet chocolate chip cookie.

And while you could make this in another pan, I think you’ll find cast iron to be best.

SKILLET COOKIE

By Mariko Jackson

• 3/4 cup unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup white sugar
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 cups flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 cup chocolate chips
• Handful miniature pretzels (optional)

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Soften butter (in the microwave if needed) until pliable but not melted.

In bowl, mix butter and sugars, stirring with a dough whisk or wooden spoon until uniform in texture and color.

Add egg and stir vigorously until incorporated. Add flour, baking soda and baking powder. Stir until just mixed and no dry flour spots are visible. Do not overstir. Fold in chocolate chips.

Scrape dough into cast iron skillet. I prefer a 10-1/4-inch skillet, but this recipe will work in a 12-inch pan. Press pretzels on top of dough, if using.

Bake 17 minutes, or until edges are well browned, and top is golden and puffed. (If you use the larger 12-inch pan, keep an eye on baking time, which will likely be shorter.)

Set aside for as long as you can stand it, then serve. Serves 4 to 6.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Mariko Jackson blogs about family and food at thelittlefoodie.com. Her column runs on the last Wednesday of the month. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.