Tasty food and sophisticated drinks boost happy hour at Merriman’s

Merriman’s is one of the most well-known names in Hawaii‘s restaurant industry, with establishments spread throughout the island chain. Head chef and restaurateur Peter Merriman was among the pioneers of the “locavore” movement in Hawaii, propelling what is now referred to as Hawaii Regional Cuisine to a fine-dining experience.

The newest Merriman’s is on the ground floor of Anaha, one of Ward Village’s fanciest new condo projects. If it hasn’t already, expect it to become become a place for Hawaii‘s power brokers and celebrities, but for regular folks, especially those looking for a casual, happy hour snack before or after shopping or taking in a movie at the nearby theaters, it is a perfectly relaxing and inviting spot.

THE EXPERIENCE

Be sure to look up before you enter the restaurant. If you’re lucky, someone will be swimming in the condo tower’s glass-bottom swimming pool above the entryway. Sometimes there is even a mermaid up there, just to give you a briefly dreamy experience.

Inside, the feeling is one of space, with high ceilings and lots of light coming in through the tall windows. Seating is mostly at small tables and booths. In keeping with the classy, elegant tone, live jazz is provided every day for happy hour.

Happy-hour specials are served only at the bar, but it’s a big one so there is plenty of room for you and your friends. Grab seats on the corner so you can chat.

THE FOOD

The happy-hour menu has five items at very affordable prices. Combining a few, like the kalua pig quesadilla ($9, nice and smoky, with an excellent mango chili sauce) and the fish taco ($6), would make a perfectly fine light dinner, and you won’t be missing out on the local fare that is Merriman’s specialty.

Perhaps the most intriguing item, though, is along the lines of an afternoon snack. The sprouted rye bread with organic cream cheese ($7) combines the slightly rough texture and somewhat bitter taste of freshly baked rye bread, made with molasses, with cool, soft, cream cheese. Garnished with roasted broccoli from Aloun Farms and crushed Maui tomato, the dish is subtle yet refreshing.

Another pleasing pau-hana dish is the fish and chips ($8). You’ll always get the catch-of-the-day for this, and for our visit it was mahimahi, dipped in a Hapa Brown Ale batter and deep-fried to perfection, just crisp on the outside and delicately tender on the inside. I really didn’t need the dipping sauces it came with, the fish was so good. The chips, meanwhile, are fried in beef tallow, adding heartiness, while a dusting of Parmesan and rosemary is a nice touch.

The happy-hour menu also offers oysters on the half shell (two for $5), served with a mignonette spiced with black pepper and shallots.

THE DRINK

All drinks are 25 percent off at happy hour, along with wines priced up to $200 — so the more you spend, the more you save.

Merriman’s specialty cocktails may be the main reason to pay a visit, especially for the signature Merriman’s Mai Tai ($12 regular, $9 happy hour). Made with Old Lahaina rum, lime, triple sec, a special house-made macadamia orgeat — a nice local touch, instead of the almond-based orgeat found elsewhere — and topped off with a whipped honey-lilikoi foam, it brings a refreshing sensation to the palate. The bartender recommends stirring the foam into the drink, but it’s good to leave a bit on top. Inhale a bit as you sip, letting the natural aromatics blend with the textured tastes of the other ingredients.

I also sampled the Dixieward ($12 regular, $9 happy hour), a pleasing blend of Rittenhouse rye, lemon, creme de cassis, and a house-made shrub, or drinking vinegar, of blackberries, rosemary and black pepper. With a bit of tartness, and some bitterness as well, it will cool you down and perk you up at the same time.

There are plenty of other drinks I’d like to try at another time, such as the No Ka Oi, made of vodka, Thai basil, lime, honey-lilikoi puree and egg whites.

THE VERDICT

Even in Hawaii’s ever-­so-casual atmosphere, there’s nothing wrong with a place that adds a touch of class to that attitude. Merriman’s certainly fits that bill, adding flair to seemingly simple dishes, and combining somewhat exotic ingredients in cocktails. With a friendly and knowledgeable staff, music to fit any taste and really easy parking nearby, it’s a no-brainer to check it out for an afternoon snack or early evening meal.