By the Glass: Corsican wines ready for world stage

I just returned from a “bucket- list” trip to Corsica, an island off the tip of southern France. I still have a vivid memory from the 1980s of tasting a wine from there, Luigi Clos Nicrosi, which completely rocked my world. It was unique, almost otherworldly, in taste and aroma.

I knew then that I had to visit the island someday. It took me more than 30 years, but it was well worth the journey.

I was pleasantly surprised at how many parts of Corsica, the birthplace of Napoleon, remain undeveloped. We drove for hours on almost perversely narrow, winding roads through mountainous, rocky, wild countrysides and never saw a hint of civilization. I wondered how such sparse, long tracks of countryside could still exist in this day and age.

We were fortunate to experience many hole-in-the-wall eateries, where authentic foods were served alongside interesting artisan wines. These meals enhanced an already fabulous Corsican experience.

In terms of wine, this trip was a dream. I was enamored with wines produced from indigenous grape varieties, such as vermentino, carcajolu neru, niellucciu and sciaccarellu, and the way these wines are distinct from anything else in the wine world. This was partly due to the native vines and the sites of the vineyards, but also to a core of vignerons who are quietly revolutionizing what is done in the vineyards and the winery. These efforts are raising the quality of the wines while maintaining their Corsican character. Because of their work, these winemakers are on the cusp of a breakthrough on the world stage.

To better appreciate the wines of Corsica, I looked beyond fruit and oak nuances. I found that many of the top wines feature earthy and savory qualities, which I believe come at least partially from the sun-baked rocks and wild herbs and shrubs that surround the vineyards. I also think the roots of these old vines dig deep into the earth and pick up different characteristics from the various layers of soils.

Here are four renditions worth seeking:

>> 2014 Giacometti Patrimonio “Cru des Agriate” (about $21 a bottle): The appellation of Patrimonio is in the northern part of the island. Giacometti is in a remote, semi-arid swath known as the Agriate desert.

We were told it takes 4-1/2 hours to get there, via rugged four-wheeling. (Imagine the monumental effort it takes to to truck the wine out, then ship it in temperature-controlled containers all the way to Hawaii.)

This wine is provocatively savory, which in this case means that instead of cherries, blackberries and plum, one gets impressions of bay leaf, rosemary, myrtle, sun-baked rocks, earth, leather and nuances of roasted chestnut.

The 2014 is transparent, tasty and surprisingly light, which is why I say unreservedly that you can enjoy it with rustic chicken and pork preparations, and certainly with the roast turkey in a Thanksgiving feast. Because it has a masculine, savory, hearty core, try it also with red meat and braised foods.

>> 2015 Maestracci Corse Calvi Rosé “E Prove” (about $21) and 2015 Maestracci Corse Calvi Vermentino “E Prove” (about $21): One of the top wine stops of our trip was to Domaine Maestracci. We loved the old vines of their vineyards, all surrounded by the native flora amid the wild countryside.

Third-generation owner-winemaker Camille-Anais Raoust, who now runs this family estate, is one of the most brilliant, savvy vignerons of the island, and will help usher Corsica and its wines onto the world stage. She is a dynamo with a real mastery both in the vineyard and the winery. The most compelling revelation, however, is how incredibly well-priced her wines are for their superb quality.

The dry, masculine, wonderfully savory Corse Calvi Rosé, for instance, is a solid choice for smoked ham or roast turkey and will certainly add to a family-style meal, as the winery intended. Enjoy this pinkster also with grilled pizza, barbecued chicken and meats, and even comfort foods such as meatloaf.

The vermentino, on the other hand, will work with Mediterranean fish and shellfish preparations, and such ingredients as saffron, fennel, olives and fresh herbs. Since these wines are savory, they work especially well with savory preparations.

>> 2015 Abbatucci “Valle di Nero” (about $79): Jean-Charles Abbatucci is regarded as a top wine master on the island. His focus is in the vineyard, where he’s devoutly committed to the native, heirloom vines and uber bio­dynamic farming.

This particular bottling, “Valle di Nero,” is his effort to save the nearly extinct carcajolu neru, which he and his father hunted down in the mountainous interior of the island. We were wowed by this rustic, masculine, juicy and savory red wine while dining at Le 20123 restaurant in the city of Ajaccio. Because of its innate savoriness, I recommend this with rustic chicken, pork and red-meat preparations. It would also provide a unique experience with the roast meats and turkey on Thanksgiving day.

Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.