After four years catering to tourists at the Top of Waikiki and nearly as long at the helm of the cocktail program of sister establishment Sky Waikiki, Jen Ackrill has her own private mixology sandbox to play in.
The Backbar opened in 2015 as a VIP lounge at Sky, with entry limited to those willing to spend thousands on a private membership. As of this month, the room is open to those who make a reservation — and have the correct password. (Hint: It’s online.)
“(Backbar) is more like if Jen Ackrill opened a bar and was allowed to do whatever she wanted,” Ackrill explained last week. “This is way more like when I was over at Rye.”
Ackrill’s seven-year tenure at the popular craft cocktail bar in San Francisco’s Tenderloin district showcased her ability to create sophisticated drinks. As she expected, Waikiki quickly taught her to put personal desires aside in favor of making drinks for the masses.
“It’s not to say I haven’t enjoyed doing … (what) we have here. But it’s just nice to get back to my own style,” she said. “A little more brown and stirred, a little more spirit-forward.”
Ackrill offers seven signature drinks at Backbar, including the Hey Yo! Chareau, which pairs Tanqueray gin with Chareau aloe liqueur and jalapeno to create an elevated version of the classic gin and tonic perfectly suited to a sunny afternoon.
Her Devil’s Swing pairs El Silencio mezcal with Italian vermouth Punt e Mes, apricot liqueur and thyme-infused olive oil to create a bold drink that changes flavors as the olive oil mixes with the alcohol.
The DDK, made with a base of Botanist gin and Lagavulin 16-year Scotch, offers just the right amount of smokiness, with coriander, cardamom and tea tincture keeping things balanced. It may or may not be named after a certain famous actor who used to appear regularly on “Hawaii Five-0.”
“The menu (here) … isn’t for everyone,” said Ackrill. “If you want happy hour, this is not the place you’re going to want to be. I think that it’s more bespoke than secret.”
Get access to the Backbar at Sky Waikiki by visiting skywaikiki.com/thebackbar; follow Sky Waikiki on Instagram (@skywaikiki) for the current password.
AFTER RECENTLY wrapping up $35 million in renovations, the Queen Kapiolani Hotel is making waves with Deck, its revamped pool bar and grill.
I’ve always kept the Queen Kapiolani in my back pocket as an underrated pau-hana pick, with its unobstructed view of Diamond Head, but now the secret’s out. Drinks here are still reasonably priced, from about $6 to $12, with a variety of wine and beer to go with new craft cocktails developed by a Los Angeles-based bartender flown in to oversee the bar’s rebranding.
Catering to the choose-your-own-adventure type of customer, Deck offers plenty of variety and customization options, despite a relatively compact bar menu. The Tiki Tiki ($12) is served three ways; the No. 1, made with coconut rum, pineapple, orange blossom and coconut water is my favorite, but there’s also a No. 2 for gin fans and No. 3 for those who like tequila or mezcal. The So Sweet, So Sour ($12) is another you-call-it, with flavors of strawberry, lemon and lime topped with a salted grapefruit foam to go with your spirit of choice.
One of the main selling points of Deck’s new bar menu is the use of scratch syrups and liqueurs (the orange curacao, for example, is made in-house). I know I’ll be back for another Rum ‘N Cola ($9), made with Deck’s spiced cola syrup mixed with soda water. It was surprisingly addicting!
The Queen Kapiolani is at 150 Kapahulu Ave.; Deck is open 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Call 922-1941 or visit queenkapiolani.com.
AS MORE bars open in Kakaako, it seems like the neighborhood is reaching critical mass as a destination for those looking for a few drinks while out with friends.
Over at The Collection, Bar Leather Apron’s Tom Park and Justin Park recently announced a partnership with Senia’s Chris Kajioka and a group of silent investors to open Bar Maze (pronounced Mah-Zeh) this spring next to Drybar on Auahi Street.
“It’s basically a mixing of the best bartender and the best chef in Honolulu, in our opinion,” Tom Park said last week by phone from Japan. “It’s going to be a neighborhood bar with an elevated experience. It’s a place where Justin, Chris and I would want to hang out when we’re not working.”
Park said Maze will introduce the Japanese-style “standing bar” concept to Kakaako, with plans to construct a mezzanine level in the 844-square-foot space to provide separate areas for guests to gather. But other than a row of banquettes, Park said there will be no other bar seating.
“It’s going to be more approachable than Bar Leather Apron,” he said. “We’ll have small bites to share and a pastry chef making desserts, but we’re not going to do reservations. This place is supposed to be lively and fun.”
Look for Bar Maze to open sometime around March; follow @bar.maze on Instagram or visit barmaze.com for updates.
Joining the ranks at Salt at Our Kaka‘ako are Fish Honolulu and Vein at Kakaako, two restaurants with vastly different bar programs. Everything at Fish is designed to complement the seafood-centric menu, with a lot of citrus-focused cocktails in the $10 to $12 range. One slight exception is the Botanical Heat ($12), which swaps out most of the fruit flavors with muddled fresh cucumber and housemade jalapeno syrup.
Vein, on the other hand, appears to have taken a shotgun approach, blasting out five specialty cocktails, each utilizing a different base liquor. I was told during a visit last week that plans are already in the works to revamp the list.
If you go, give the Hat-Trick ($12) a try. Made with Tuaca brandy, Malfy gin and Galliano herbal liqueur, it’s an interesting mix that doesn’t get too boozy, thanks to a little pineapple juice.
And over at Keauhou Lane, Real Gastropub is gearing up for the December opening of its new 3,692-square-foot space that will now include a brewing operation.
Bent Tail Brewing Co. may not be ready to serve its own brew when Real reopens at its new home, but owners Troy Terorotua and Lisa Kim are hustling to get production up and running as soon as possible. Go to realgastropub.com for the latest info.
Jason Genegabus has written about the local bar and drink scenes since 2001. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @honolulupulse or email jason@staradvertiser.com.
