Barfly: Goen, Maui Brewing, Off the Wall, Fujioka’s

The year 2019 could well be the start of a golden era for Kailua’s drinks scene, with new openings by Roy Yamaguchi and Maui Brewing Co. helping the neighborhood achieve critical mass.

Beer drinkers have had it good the last few years, thanks to the 2016 opening of self-service tasting room Grace in Growlers (which added indoor and outdoor seating options late last year) and Lanikai Brewing Co.’s Tap & Barrel craft pub in 2017. Over by the Kailua Police Station, Three Peaks Island Craft Beer & Gifts has been quietly keeping customers’ growlers filled with quality microbrews from around the country since 2017 as well. You can even stop by Whole Foods Kailua for a pint of quality microbrew.

Things should get even better now that Maui Brewing is finally open at the Lau Hala Shops. While MBC enjoys wide distribution statewide, you’ll often find limited-edition releases at the brewpubs that never make it to store shelves. Be sure to stop by and check out the impressive new mural by local artist Kamea Hadar that graces an entire wall of the restaurant, too. Visit mbcrestaurants.com/kailua for more.

Around the corner from MBC is Goen, a new “Pan-Asian/American” concept influenced by Hawaii’s flavors and ingredients that Yamaguchi opened in November with a well-curated list of craft cocktails, draught beer and wines by the glass. Roy’s namesake prosecco, chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon are all available here, and I love how the bar’s five taps are dominated by local offerings from Beer Lab Hawaii, Waikiki Brewing Co. and Kailua neighbor Lanikai Brewing.

But it’s the half-dozen craft cocktails on the menu that are really going to change the game in Kailua. While it’s relatively easy to find good beer and wine in the area, there are few options for a quality cocktail that’s accessible and reasonably priced.

Goen raises the bar with a lineup of well-balanced drinks like the Nippon 75 ($13), a twist on the classic French 75 that uses Suntory’s new Roku gin as its base and is mixed with sparkling sake and fresh yuzu. I also enjoyed the Ko‘olau Sour ($13), a version of the classic whiskey sour elevated by the addition of fresh lilikoi and honey syrups. Using Knob Creek rye whiskey helps cut the sweetness in this one, with egg whites adding a velvety mouthfeel and a dusting of lemon pepper tickling your nose as you take the first sip.

While Goen shuts down its kitchen for an hour between 4 and 5 p.m. every day, the bar remains open from 11:30 a.m. through the end of dinner service at 9 p.m. Call 263-4636 or visit royyamaguchi.com.

THE previously mentioned renovation at Grace in Growlers was crowdfunded by customers, underscoring the support Windward Oahu residents have for self-service beer-tasting. On the other side of the Koolau Mountains, Off the Wall Craft Beer & Wine is introducing Kakaako residents to the idea of pouring your own pints of beer (plus hard cider, craft soda, wine and kombucha) as well.

Open in South Shore Marketplace near Scratch Kitchen and Meatery, Off the Wall follows the same model as Grace in Growlers: Customers are given wireless transmitters (Grace in Growlers uses bracelets; Off the Wall provides smartcards) that allow access to a computerized tap system and track purchases. Align your card with the reader and the taps unlock, allowing you to pour as much — or as little — as you like.

Off the Wall only offers locally produced beers from its 24 taps, with prices per ounce from 44 cents (Honolulu Brewing Co.’s Kewalos Cream Ale) to 75 cents (Acai Nectar sour, a collaboration of Beer Lab Hawaii and Off the Wall). Lilikoi Sky Kobumcha is 76 cents per ounce, with a half-dozen wines from $1.15 to $1.65 per ounce.

With seating for about 50 people, this is a cozy spot that looks like it will appeal to beer fans seeking specific local brews, as well as the casual South Shore shopper who just wants a bit of liquid refreshment. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays, until midnight Fridays and Saturdays, and until 6 p.m. Sundays); call 593-2337 or visit offthewallhawaii.com.

RATHER DO your drinking at home? You don’t have to miss out on private bottlings of your favorite bourbon, thanks to Fujioka’s Wine Times at Market City Shopping Center. Manager Jason Fukeda has cultivated relationships with brands like Buffalo Trace, Knob Creek and Maker’s Mark to allow Fujioka’s to purchase hand-selected barrels of whiskey that, if picked properly, can taste markedly better than the stuff normally found on store shelves. For each barrel, Fukeda either travels to the distillery or has multiple samples shipped to Honolulu, then picks his favorite to be bottled and sold at retail.

My newest favorite is the “Hawaii Whiskey Mafia” barrel of Maker’s 46 ($64.99) that Fukeda chose with help from Pint + Jigger owner Dave Newman and Ko Hana Distillery’s Kyle Reutner. It’s a fiery cask-strength bourbon that isn’t for the faint of heart, but trust me — it will only turn more delicious once you crack the seal and let a little air mellow it out.

More affordable, yet no less tasty, options include private barrels of Elijah Craig ($30.99) and Buffalo Trace ($26.99), while those with deep pockets will want to give Fujioka’s picks of Whistle Pig rye whiskey ($110.99), Kilchoman Machir Bay Scotch ($63.99) or Crown Royal Canadian whisky ($58.99). Other nonbourbon store picks include Ohishi Japanese whisky ($64.99), Don Q Seleccion Especial rum ($45.99) and Maestro Dobel tequila ($35.99).

Can’t make up your mind? The crew at Fujioka’s is among the most knowledgeable in Honolulu, happy to help educate you — just ask. Open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, except Sundays, when they’re open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call 739-9463 or follow @fujiokaswinetimes on Instagram for updates when new bottlings arrive.

Jason Genegabus has written about the local bar and drink scenes since 2001. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram or email jason@staradvertiser.com.