The Weekly Eater: Real Gastropub returns just as friendly — and even tastier — than ever

Real Gastropub has all the hallmarks of a great neighborhood pub — a relaxed atmosphere, expanded food menu and its own soon-to-open Bent Tail Brewing Co. that will add to its roster of brews from around the world. Add to this two hosts with the most in owners Troy Terorotua and Lisa Kim, ready to greet familiar patrons with a handshake and a hug.

They’ve come a long way since Real’s origin in a cramped, dark space at the Ward Farmers Market building, which closed in 2017 to make way for new development.

In the downtime, fans took comfort in the couple’s other enterprise, Brew’d Craft Pub in Kaimuki, and, for a short time, Chinatown’s Palate Craft & Eatery.

NOW THEY’VE brought Real back to its old Kakaako neighborhood. The new Real has a much sleeker space in Keauhou Lane, in a spacious room with a warm sienna glow, high ceiling and a beautiful central bar. It’s comfortable even if you consider yourself more of a restaurant than bar person.

They’ve connected to their roots by bringing back the beer-themed artwork from their original haunt, as well as photos of their dog Bender, whose bent tail gives their brewery its name.

The homey touch is necessary, Terorotua said, because he essentially lives there 18 hours a day.

The menu of small plates will seem familiar to fans of the Real family of pubs, but is mostly new and includes a handful of large plates for the evening. For now, the menu day and night is the same, but lunch hours and offerings are in flux.

Real built its reputation on “real beer” and “real food” and the menu opens with such small beer-friendly bites as pipikaula ($12) and confit chicken wings ($14) with choice of Buffalo or soy-sesame Mongolian sauce, or garlic and Parmesan. Shimeji mushrooms ($13), deep-fried in tempura batter, arrive crisp and light as air, served with a garlic IPA aioli.

There’s comfort in old-fashioned deviled eggs ($9), brought up to date with black truffle aioli and chives’; poutine with the addition of stout-braised brisket ($14); and Pig Wings ($17), pork deep-fried on the bone with a crisp exterior to mimic chicken wings, served lechon-style with the Pinoy blend of diced tomatoes, onions, green onions, vinegar and patis.

Many bars neglect vegetables, but you’ll find a lot of greens here to make a meal experience complete, from salads to veggies enhanced to suit a meat eater’s palate. Brussels sprouts come sauteed with corned beef ($11); and fried cauliflower ($13) is spiked with Buffalo sauce for those who like a spicy-sour blend, or Mongolian sauce for those who prefer more savory notes.

Salad offerings range from caprese ($13) to beet salad ($12), to a chilled dish of somen ($15) stacked over Waipoli greens with mushrooms, soft boiled egg and a light yuzu-ginger dressing.

For what is shaping up to be a warm summer ahead, chilled dishes range from poke ($13) and ahi tataki ($16) to Tahitian-style poisson cru ($13) of ahi marinated in lime and coconut milk with a touch of salt, and Guamanian chicken kelaguen ($12), the chicken salad tossed in a flavorful blend of lemon, coconut, green onions and chili peppers.

SAMMIES START with a Bent Tail Burger ($16) of Kunoa Cattle Co. grass-fed beef with garlic IPA aioli. Add-ons include bacon, pork belly or pastrami at $5 each, or $10 for all three, or a choice of cheddar or pepper jack cheese ($1 each).

There’s also a fish sandwich ($16), Reuben on rye ($15), pork belly ($14), and Chorizo Griddled Cheese ($15) that’s pleasing if you like a warm, melty blanket of soft Mexican cheese. I found it rather bland, though. Adding more of the spicy sausage would liven it up, as would a crunchy slaw.

Larger plates include fish and chips ($15) with a trio of fresh island fish fillets, beer-braised short ribs ($22) and New York strip steak sliced pupu-style ($26). A juicy Duroc pork chop ($21) is brined, coated with a spicy, smoked paprika paste and grilled, served with mac and cheese ($12 a la carte) generously topped with crumbled bacon.

Desserts are available, but after all the food there’s little room left for a doughnut bread pudding with bacon ($8) or a bite of cobbler ($8).

Real’s sister restaurant, Brew’d Craft Pub, 3441 Waialae Ave., celebrates its fifth anniversary at 4 p.m. April 27, with barbecue, specialty kegs and raffles.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.