Hawaii island ceremony celebrates Kamehameha the Great

In 1812, two years after uniting the islands, King Kamehameha I moved his residence and the capital of Hawaii from Oahu to Kamakahonu (“eye of the turtle”), the bayfront area at the north end of Ali‘i Drive in Kailua-Kona, which now encompasses the site of the Courtyard by Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel.

The royal compound included Ahu‘ena, a heiau (place of worship) built in the late 1400s, which Kamehameha restored for his personal use. Meaning “altar of fire,” it is supposedly where the sun first touches the ground after it rises over Hualalai Mountain — an alignment that holds great significance to Native Hawaiians.

Kameha­meha ruled from Kamaka­honu until his death there on May 8, 1819. With his passing came the birth of a new era in Hawaii.

Just six months later, Kameha­meha II (Liholiho, his eldest son) broke the kapu system of ancient laws by dining with two of his father’s widows — his mother, Keopuolani, and his co-ruler, Ka‘ahumanu—at a feast at Kamaka­honu. Under the kapu, men and women had been forbidden to eat together.

Both queens supported Liholiho’s subsequent order for all heiau, including Ahu‘ena, to be closed and kii (carved wooden images) to be burned. This opened the door for Christian missionaries, who arrived at Kamakahonu in April 1820, to share the gospel.

In just one year, life in Hawaii was drastically changed.

Over the decades, as the missionaries’ influence grew, heiau throughout the islands were dismantled or left to succumb to the elements. Eventually, Ahu‘ena was reduced to just a pile of rocks.

After the 150th anniversary of Kamehameha I’s death in 1969, concerned members of the community began to consider rebuilding it. In November 1975, they partnered with Bishop Museum and Amfac, the owner of the site at the time, to launch a reconstruction project.

Respected consultants played key roles to ensure the work was done properly, including archaeologist Patrick Kirch, Hawaiian historic preservation specialist David Roy Jr., Bishop Museum anthropologists Kenneth Emory and Yosihiko Sinoto, and renowned artist, historian and author Herb Kawainui Kane, who drew the original blueprints for the reconstruction based on an 1816 sketch by German-Russian artist Louis Choris.

Every effort was made to use authentic materials such as ohia, breadfruit and waiawi (strawberry guava) timber; hala, ti and sugarcane leaves for thatching; and banana sheaths and amau fern to cover the ridges of roofs. In March 1977, Ahu‘ena Heiau once again stood on the shores of Kamakahonu.

At least four of the eight kii there represent Hawaiian gods, including Kuka‘ilimoku, the god of war. A feathered image of Ku accompanied Kamehameha I during his campaign to unify the islands.

Kamakahonu was designated a National Historic Landmark on Dec. 29, 1962, and was added to the State Register of Historic Places on July 17, 1993.

Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc. was established as a nonprofit organization in 1993 to guide the ongoing restoration and maintenance of the heiau (see sidebar). It led planning to mark the 200th anniversary of Kamehameha I’s passing with observances there on May 8.

“A procession of chanters and Hawaiian societies will walk in the footsteps of the king beginning at about 5 a.m. at Hale Halawai community center,” said Tom Hickcox, chair of Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc.’s board of directors.

Participants will continue along Ali‘i Drive to Ahu‘ena Heiau, where they will be met by a convoy of Kai ‘Opua Canoe Club’s canoes. A sunrise ceremony will include presentations of ho‘okupu (gifts) at the heiau.

The public is welcome to watch the procession and ceremony, and to go on a free 30-minute tour that will explain the significance of Kamakahonu and the heiau.

Although tour groups will not be able to enter the heiau grounds, they will be able to see its five structures from a nearby vantage point.

Hale Mana (House of Spiritual Power) is the largest building. “This was a place for prayer and for Kamehameha to hold meetings to discuss the affairs of the kingdom with his most trusted advisors,” Hickcox said. “It was also where he trained young Prince Liholiho to be his heir apparent.”

From Hale Nana Mahina‘ai (House to See the Gardens), Kamehameha could watch over both ocean activity and his upland agricultural fields. “It is said that on occasion, he would go to the fields and work there, side by side with his people,” he said. “He didn’t think it was beneath him to get his hands dirty. He was, by all accounts, a great warrior and a wise, just leader who was widely loved and respected.”

Covered with fine white tapa, the anuu (oracle tower) served as a portal to the gods, where questions could be asked and answers received. Kahuna (priests) were not the only ones who used the anuu, although they were typically called upon to perform that function.

Ceremonial drums were stored in the Hale Pahu (Drum House), and Hale Ki‘ai was where the guards were stationed.

“Although Ahu‘ena Heiau ranks among Hawaii’s most important cultural and historical sites, few know its full story,” Hickcox said. “That story will be shared at the May 8 commemoration. We invite everyone to come, listen, learn and perhaps be inspired to join Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc.’s efforts to ensure that Kamehameha and what happened at Kamakahonu will never be forgotten.”

CONTINUING THE WORK

It has been 42 years since Ahu‘ena Heiau was reconstructed.

“That’s a long time, and there’s a lot of deterioration, especially since it is so close to the ocean,” said Tom Hickcox, the board chair of Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc. “Repair and maintenance of the heiau is ongoing and has been so over the years. As a volunteer organization, we at Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc. do what we can to care for the site, but we rely on donations. When funds are available, we move forward with the work.”

Hickcox would love to have all of the structures in the heiau rebuilt and in perfect condition, but that requires a continuing source of money and manpower.

Community participation is welcomed, and tax-deductible contributions can be made and mailed to: Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc., c/o the Courtyard by Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel, 75-5660 Palani Road, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740.

For more information, go to ahuena-heiau.org.

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.