Pau Hana Patrol: Bethel Union offers Italian cuisine with zest

Bethel Union is a charming little Italian bistro in Chinatown that opened about two years ago by the same group that runs the pizzeria J. Dolan’s and Ferguson’s Pub. Located in the former Brasserie du Vin space, it’s an especially convenient spot if you’re going to a show at Hawaii Theatre, located across the street.

But don’t make that your only reason to go. Bethel Union (it takes its name from the street name and the plumbers union, which owns the building) is worthy of a visit anytime, especially for a pau hana visit, when you want something relaxed and casually refined, where you’ll feel comfortable in street clothes or office attire, but not sweaty workout clothes or beach wear.

THE EXPERIENCE

Bethel Union has an airy, spacious feel, with white stucco walls, brick trim and a long, beechwood bar that stretches nearly the length of the main dining room. The Italian references can be seen in a few of the paintings of Venice hanging on the wall, but there are local touches too. Co-owner and GM Kevin Czaban said local artists will sometimes bring paintings to put on display.

While the overall sensation is of size, there are also areas of privacy. You see the bar and a few tables for groups of maybe eight in the middle of the room, but along the wall there are more spaces tucked away behind arches and abutments. It’s a nice place for a quiet chat among friends. Not that you need to worry much about noise – unlike so many eateries these days, there are no flat screens blaring sports headlines here.

The piece de resistance, however, is the back patio, an open-air space with pergola roof, festooned with festive lights. Too often al fresco dining means eating with a view of a parking lot or along a noisy, exhaust-filled street. Here it was quiet, and though a bit warm when we got there at 4 p.m., comfortable and cool an hour or so later. I suspect that anytime other than the hottest summer days it would be pleasant even during the early hours of happy hour, which are from 3 to 6 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

THE FOOD

Bethel Union has a nice selection of happy hour food items, with most items discounted a few dollars from its small plates menu. True to Italian fashion, many of the items featured cheese in some shape or form, none more satisfying than Czaban’s recommendation, the Burrata Caprese ($10 happy hour, $14 regular). This was cheese made from buffalo milk, with a texture so soft and creamy that it barely surpassed liquid. Served with crostini and marinated tomatoes with a basil and balsamic reduction garnish, it was soothing as well as tasty.

Bethel Union’s charcuterie board was one of the more generous I’ve encountered, both in terms of variety and quantity. The price (around $22) and items change based on availability, but that day there were three different cheeses, from hard to soft, four kinds of sliced meat, including a delicious Serrano ham, along with fruit, nuts and other garnishes. With a glass of red wine, it would have been perfect to pick at for an hour or so.

We also had the Cheese Arancini, a rather filling fried mushroom and potato ball with risotto and cheese ($9 happy hour, $12 regular) and the Chicken Parmesan Skewers ($6 happy hour, $8 regular), also very tasty.

THE DRINK

Happy hour beverages are a good deal at Bethel, with house wines and select seasonal beers at $6 and well drinks for $5, a discount of about $1 to $3 dollars.

For just $8 at happy hour you can get one of Bethel Union’s specialty cocktails. We tried the Oh Dios Mio ($11 regular), a margarita made with habanera tequila and campari. It had a spicy, zesty sensibility to it, perfect for an afternoon refreshment.

Other cocktails that looked appetizing included the Pocho Da Man, described as a “fun-loving old-fashioned” made of whiskey, kiawe wood, and cherry orange bitters, and the What the Doctor Ordered, described as a “neo-classic sangria” made of fruit-steeped cognac, fresh fruit and house wine (both regularly $11).

THE VERDICT

Bethel Union is a classy place but with a relaxed and friendly vibe. While the place was virtually empty when I first arrived, on a Thursday afternoon, it was getting comfortably busy within an hour, with not only people dropping by at the bar from work but other parties having made arrangements to meet at the patio out back.

Note that Bethel Union has also put together some special offers, including “Wine and Cheese for dinner,” with a bottle of wine and a charcuterie board for $40, on Tuesdays, wine classes at 8 p.m. Wednesdays, featuring a sampling at $45 to $75, and a 30% discount on wines by the bottle on Thursdays.

Whether you’re there for a casual pau hana, a special event or a sit-down dinner later, it’s worth a visit.

BETHEL UNION

1115 Bethel St.

524-0447, bethelunion.com

Happy Hour: 3-6 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

>> Union Fries, $6

>> Grilled Asparagus, $6

>> Roasted Pepper Bruschetta, $9

>> Meatball Marinara $11

>> House wines, select beers, $6

>> Specialty Cocktails, $8

>> Well drinks, $5