Hawaii’s Backyard: Kauai farm tour focuses on locally grown foods

Katherine Smithers and her husband, Roel Faber, a professional chef, have savored cherry blossom soup in Japan; raw salted herring with onions and pickles in the Netherlands; and nacatamales (corncakes filled with pork, potatoes and vegetables and steamed in plantain leaves) in Nicaragua.

“We’ve visited many places around the world and have enjoyed exploring their diverse food cultures,” Smithers said. “Dining is an integral part of traveling, and Tasting Kauai’s goal is to spotlight fresh local ingredients and introduce visitors to the imaginative, talented people who are creating amazing food with them.”

Smithers is the company’s manager of tour operations. She is especially excited about the Lihue Farm Tour, which, launched in January, is its newest offering.

“Most of Kauai’s visitors fly into Lihue, the island’s seat of government, but spend little, if any, time there,” Smithers said. “Residents just think of Lihue as the place where Costco, Walmart and Home Depot are. That’s a shame because despite its laid-back ambience, Lihue is really an exciting destination for foodies.”

The tour begins on Saturdays at the Kauai Community Market at Kauai Community College (KCC), which, featuring about 70 vendors, is the biggest farmers market on the island. Tour participants have time to browse on their own as well as enjoy four tastings with the group.

At Hawaiian Island Juice, Alan Van Zee serves beverages made of organic Kauai-grown papaya, lilikoi, soursop, pineapple, kale, mango and more. None of his smoothies contain dairy products; they get their creaminess from apple bananas.

“I love the creativity Alan puts into his menu every week,” Smithers said. “Whether it’s hibiscus coolers, ginger lemonade or horchata made with taro, almond milk, coconut milk, agave and spices, there’s always something delicious and refreshing that you’ve never tried before.”

Kimya Sadaghiani Schryver of Harmonious Roots draws on her Iranian background for the gluten-free, dairy-free, plant-based delicacies that she brings to the market. Among them is an appetizer called borani, which usually is made with yogurt. She presents versions with eggplant, squash, onions and turmeric powder; their smooth texture comes from ground tahini and macadamia nuts.

“Kimya goes all over Kauai to track down quality ingredients,” Smithers said. “I also admire how she has adapted her family’s traditional recipes to fit local preferences.”

The standout at Wabi-Sabi’s booth is a Vietnamese banh mi sandwich, a baguette stuffed with homemade pickled daikon and carrots, and a portabello mushroom braised in soy sauce, sesame oil, pineapple juice, garlic, shallots and lemon grass. It’s served with fresh mint, Thai basil, cilantro, cucumbers and a homemade vegan mayo.

Chef/owner Jason Ebesu was born and raised on Kauai and is a graduate of KCC’s culinary arts program. “His girlfriend and family are very supportive; they’re at the market every week to help with preparations and sales,” Smithers said. “Jason’s food is light and healthy but also savory and satisfying.”

Ono Pops offers handmade gourmet popsicles in more than 75 Hawaii-sourced flavors (about 30 are in stock at any given time). Local ingredients include strawberries from Maui, Waialua Estate chocolate from Oahu, macadamia nuts from ­Hawaii island and coffee, oranges, lemons, mangoes and pink grapefruit from Kauai. Among the bestsellers are Chocolate Apple Banana, Pineapple Li Hing Mui and Lilikoi 50-50 (vanilla ice cream hand-dipped in lilikoi sherbet).

The company was founded on Oahu in 2010. Greg and Candace Askew have a manufacturing and distribution agreement to operate Ono Pops on Kauai and are constantly experimenting with new flavors. Their offerings change weekly.

FROM THE market, it’s a short walk to GoFarm Hawaii’s 4-acre field in Lihue, which formerly was covered with invasive albizia trees. The farm is part of a statewide farmer training program under the auspices of the University of Hawaii’s College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources. It began in 2012 on Oahu (the Kauai site opened two years later) and has since become one of the largest and most successful projects of its kind in the country.

The curriculum includes soil health, crop selection, pest and disease control, business planning and marketing. Kauai Manager Eric Hansen is on hand to discuss GoFarm’s goals, achievements and the work tourgoers might see.

“This is the only stop without a tasting, but the information Eric shares is important,” Smithers said. “Kauai imports about 90 percent of its food, and if shipments were to stop, supplies would last only a week. GoFarm is playing a key role to ensure food security in Hawaii.”

From there, it’s on to Verde, where Chef Kristin Yanagawa, another Kauai native and graduate of KCC’s culinary arts program, has earned raves for her Mexican­-inspired cuisine made with local produce, grass-fed Kauai beef, and antibiotic- and hormone-free pork and chicken. The tasting here is sopaipillas, a puff pastry stuffed with beef, beans, potatoes, cheese and a piquant chili sauce.

“Verde’s motto says it all: ‘Eat Local,’” Smithers said. “Chef Kristin features a monthly special based on what’s abundant at Kauai farms during that time. For example, one month she made vegan tacos with taro, mung beans and moringa.”

The tour winds up at the Kauai Beer Company and might include a peek at its small but efficient production facility. Owner Jim Gerber “talks story” with participants as they sip their choice of beers (his son, Justin, is the brewer) and munch on thick-cut taro fries, which come with a house-made remoulade but are equally delicious on their own.

“The taro comes from a farm just three miles away,” Smithers said. “Every stop on the Lihue Farm Tour celebrates that farm-to-table concept, showing our guests how fresh local ingredients produce fantastic food — one delightful sip and bite at a time.”

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writersawards.