Recipe: Coleslaw with the kiss of fire

A well-seasoned coleslaw is an essential element to barbecue, though the slaw that shows up on your table depends on where you smoke and eat your meat.

Dutch immigrants brought coleslaw to the New World in the 1700s, and the name stuck (from the Dutch words “kool” for “cabbage” and “sla” for “salad”). It became a part of the nation’s culinary heritage when Amelia Simmons mentioned it in “American Cookery,” the first cookbook written by an American for Americans, published in Hartford, Conn., in 1796.

In the Midwest, German immigrants left their mark on slaw, sharpened with vinegar, sweetened with sugar and perfumed with caraway seed. In this form it makes the perfect accompaniment to grilled bratwurst.

Vinegar slaw flavored with peppery vinegar sauce dominates southern Virginia and North Carolina. Mustard slaw goes on pork sandwiches in South Carolina and Georgia. Creamy coleslaw, lavished with mayonnaise and flecked with celery seed, traditionally accompanies the Kansas City barbecue big three (brisket, chicken and ribs) and is popular just about everywhere else.

But suppose you made coleslaw the star of your barbecue. You can, with a tool you have in your yard. Grilling the cabbage adds a depth of flavor that takes slaw from the periphery of the plate to the center, from supporting player to barbecue itself.

GRILLED

The easiest way to harness the firepower of your grill to make slaw is direct grilling: cooking the cabbage over high heat, charring the leaves to impart a decisive smoke flavor to the coleslaw.

To do so, light the coals in a chimney starter, then rake them out over the bottom of the grill. On a gas grill, simply set the burners on high.

Lightly brush quarters of cabbage with oil and grill directly over the heat until darkly singed on all sides.

The key is to work quickly over a hot fire so you char the outside leaves while leaving the cabbage raw and crisp in the center. (Coleslaw just wouldn’t have the right crunch unless some of the cabbage remains raw.) A couple minutes per side will do it.

EMBER-ROASTED

Another even more theatrical technique is to roast the cabbage directly in the embers (a move I call “cave-manning”). Light a charcoal or wood-burning grill and let the coals burn down to glowing embers, then rake them into an even layer.

Place cabbage sections on top. Roast until charred, even burned, on all sides, a couple of minutes per side. Use long-handled tongs to turn the cabbage, and protect your hands with heavy-duty grill gloves.

Cool the cabbage on a sheet pan or metal tray: Don’t use a wooden or plastic tray in the event that a small live ember has clung to the charred outside leaves. Use a pastry brush to get rid of excess ash.

Ember-roasting endows the slaw with an intense smoke flavor, a fiery technique cooks in the Middle East have used for centuries to transform eggplant into smoky baba ghanouj.

Again, the trick is to char the exterior, but briefly enough to leave the center raw and crunchy. I particularly like to use savoy cabbage for this preparation: The corrugated leaves channel the smoke deep inside the head.

GRILLED SLAW WITH GINGER AND SESAME

By Steven Raichlen

• Canola or grapeseed oil, for brushing the grate
• 1 head napa cabbage (about 2 pounds)
• 1 Asian pear
• 2 scallions
• 2 to 3 tablespoons sesame oil
• Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1 red bell pepper
• 2 jalapenos
• >> Dressing:
• 2 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon EACH salt and pepper
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, plus more to taste
• 3 tablespoons sesame oil
• 2 tablespoons black or toasted white sesame seeds (optional)
• 1 teaspoon Chinese or Vietnamese chili paste (optional)

Light grill; grease grate lightly with canola oil.

Cut cabbage lengthwise into quarters through core. Cut pear in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Lightly brush cabbage, pear and scallions all over with sesame oil; season with salt and pepper.

Grill cabbage until darkly charred on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Inside should remain cool, firm and crisp. Transfer to a sheet pan to cool.

Grill cut sides of pear, and whole scallions, bell pepper and jalapenos until grill-marked, turning halfway through, 2 to 3 minutes per side for pear; 4 minutes for the rest. Transfer to sheet pan. Let cool to room temperature.

Make dressing: In a large bowl, mash together the sugar, ginger and garlic with salt and pepper. Add rice vinegar and whisk until salt and sugar are dissolved. Whisk in sesame oil, sesame seeds and chili paste, if using.

Cut away core of each cabbage quarter, then thinly slice crosswise and add to dressing. Julienne pear, bell pepper and jalapeno, discarding seeds; add to the slaw. Thinly slice scallions crosswise, discarding root ends; add them as well.

Taste, adding more vinegar, sugar or salt to taste. Refrigerate; serve within a couple hours. Serves 6.

EMBER-ROASTED SLAW WITH MINT

By Steven Raichlen

• 1 head savoy cabbage (about 2 pounds), quartered lengthwise through core
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh mint
• >> Dressing:
• 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more to taste
• 3 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon Dusseldorf or Dijon-style mustard
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Light a charcoal or wood-burning grill and let the coals burn down to glowing embers.

Meanwhile, make the dressing: In a large bowl, whisk vinegar and sugar until sugar dissolves. Whisk in oil, followed by mustard and caraway seeds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Lay cabbage quarters directly on coals and roast until all sides are charred, turning with tongs, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a sheet pan and let cool.

Discard tough core of cabbage, then thinly slice crosswise. Add to the dressing and toss to coat. Taste and season with more salt, sugar or vinegar to taste. Refrigerate; serve within a couple hours. Just before serving, stir in the mint. Serves 6.

Nutritional information unavailable.