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How I spent my 27-hour vacation in Singapore’s Changi Airport

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                The HSBC Rain Vortex, plunging 130 feet, at Singapore Changi Airport. With a soaring waterfall, forests, endless shops and restaurants, and even a sound-and-light show, a few hours’ layover in Changi Airport may not be enough time.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    The HSBC Rain Vortex, plunging 130 feet, at Singapore Changi Airport. With a soaring waterfall, forests, endless shops and restaurants, and even a sound-and-light show, a few hours’ layover in Changi Airport may not be enough time.

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                Visitors walk 82 feet above the floor on a “Sky Net” in the Jewel complex at Singapore Changi Airport.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    Visitors walk 82 feet above the floor on a “Sky Net” in the Jewel complex at Singapore Changi Airport.

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                The Terminal 3 transit area at Singapore Changi Airport.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    The Terminal 3 transit area at Singapore Changi Airport.

Beneath a giant glass dome, where a waterfall plunges 130 feet through a forest, and a winding path leads past palms and fig trees, orchids and anthurium, a robot came rolling around a bend.

It was about 5 feet tall, and cruising my way. In its frame were shelves of bottled water and, with a lilting voice, it encouraged passersby to grab a drink. Delighted, I obliged. Alas, the robot didn’t stick around for small talk — and neither did I. It was time to cross a Sky Net suspended more than 80 feet in the air.

So began my airport vacation.

Before you recoil at the thought of an airport holiday, let me explain. This is no ordinary airport. It’s Singapore’s Changi: part theme park, part futuristic pleasure dome. And while an airport is typically a limbo — a swinging door between where you’ve been and where you’re going — Changi is the rare airport that invites you to stay.

Indeed, it’s so inviting, that while planning a trip to Southeast Asia, I suggested to my husband that rather than just transit at Changi, we stay overnight. The plan was to spend 27 hours taking advantage of its dazzling attractions. I could idle in the rooftop Sunflower Garden; watch butterflies in the tropical sanctuary; get lost in the Mirror Maze; zoom through a tube slide; and explore indoor “walking trails,” as verdant as any found outside. Never mind airplanes. Changi’s website reads like a brochure for an all-inclusive resort: free movies in 24-hour theaters, retro arcade games, light-and-sound shows starring the soaring waterfall spilling from an oculus in a roof.

The back story

In 2018, more than 65.6 million passengers passed through Changi. That put it among the top 20 airports in the world for passenger traffic, cargo and aircraft movements in the latest World Airport Traffic Report from Airports Council International, a trade association. Yet as busy as Changi is, for the past seven years air travelers have voted it the world’s best airport, according to Skytrax, the London-based air transport rating organization. This year, Changi upped the ante by opening Jewel Changi Airport, a glass-and-steel shopping and entertainment complex accessible to travelers and locals alike.

While more airports are introducing diversions besides upscale shopping and eating — like the opening last year of an infinity edge pool and observation deck at the TWA Hotel at John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York City — none have pushed the envelope as far as Changi — and Jewel is the latest evidence of that. Yes, there are fashionable restaurants, shops and bars. But there are also eye-popping gardens and whimsies that wouldn’t be out of place in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory: Animals made of bright flowers; a field where children can play amid fog that rises from the ground; a glass-bottomed bridge.

Sunrise check-in

It was 7 a.m. when I arrived at the Crowne Plaza Changi Airport, which I chose because, despite being in a terminal, the hotel feels a bit like a tropical resort. (This was, after all, a vacation.) There’s an outdoor pool and lounge chairs, wood decking, islands with palms. Open-air hallways flanked by reflecting pools let in the Singapore heat and lend a sultry atmosphere. And the hotel’s location next to a bridge to Jewel means you can walk right into Changi’s latest draw (though it’s worth a Skytrain ride sometime for a close-up of the waterfall). Since my flight was arriving in the morning, I’d arranged to pay an additional fee (about $118) to check-in early, so there was no wait for the room.

A morning stroll

After unpacking I headed over to Jewel, which its architect, Moshe Safdie, described in Architectural Digest as a kind of “mystical paradise garden.” Standing on a viewing deck amid its tall trees and thousands of lush shrubs — the waterfall pouring right through the building — you can’t help but be enchanted. Visitors wearing backpacks and wheeling luggage stopped to pose for photos, the falls hissing behind them like a newfangled Niagara. When sunlight hit the water just so, there was even a rainbow.

As with all wonderlands, though, there’s a fine line between fantasy and dystopia. Looking around, it isn’t hard to imagine a future in which everyone lives in domed cities in temperature-­controlled, never-ending summers. Signs refer to “trails” that you can “hike,” as if Jewel’s smooth, clean floors are rugged arteries through the wilderness. The trees and shrubs around the waterfall have a corporate name: the Shiseido Forest Valley, after the Japanese beauty company. The waterfall is officially known as the HSBC Rain Vortex. And it’s surrounded by stores and restaurants, allowing a visitor to keep one eye on the jungle-scape and the other on the latest fashions at Calvin Klein — or the queue for Shake Shack. The result is a staggering display of artificiality and nature, with lights that can turn a waterfall crimson, or make it seem as if you’re dining al fresco under a starry sky.

Beneath that sky, on Jewel’s tree-lined top floor, is Canopy Park, where we went to try theme-park style attractions: mazes, slides and the Manulife Sky Nets, one for bouncing, the other — the one I would soon choose to follow — for walking.

Late-morning balancing act

Far beneath my sneakered feet were the tops of people’s heads and I instantly imagined falling through the net into the display of acrylic boxes at the Muji store below. I gripped my husband’s arm while a woman who looked to be about 70 bounced past us, hands in the air, grinning and waving at a little girl not far behind.

Eventually, I made it back to terra firma where I realized that land-based activities, like the Mirror Maze (for which I’d been given a foam noodle to tap the space in front of me as a way to avoid bumping into a mirror) were more my speed.

Restaurant-hopping

With award-winning restaurants and specialties from Singapore and throughout Asia (Singaporean cuisine from Violet Oon Singapore; hot pot from Beauty in The Pot), we treated lunch at Jewel like a cruise ship smorgasbord. A friend who lives in Singapore joined us for dim sum at Tim Ho Wan, an outpost of the Hong Kong-based Michelin-star winner (even so, it’s surprisingly affordable). Afterward, it was on to Japanese Soba Noodles Tsuta, a branch of the first ramen restaurant to receive a Michelin star, where we had the Shoyu soba; followed by raw milk, soft-serve ice cream from Japan’s Icenoie Hokkaido; and “botanical gelato” in flavors like white chrysanthemum (imagine the taste of flower florets and cacao nibs) from Birds of Paradise.

All afternoon we browsed regional snack and confection stalls as if we were at a street market. At Rich & Good Cake Shop, known for its Swiss rolls, a sign said that “due to overwhelming demand and limited stock,” each adult was allowed only one item. Of the small boxes, the sole remaining flavor was durian, a fruit so pungent it’s not allowed on public transportation in Singapore.

The evening show

Evening came quickly, and with a puff of mist from above, the first of the free nightly light and sound shows at the Rain Vortex began. We joined the scores of visitors slipping out of stores and leaning over balconies, smartphones at the ready, to watch the waterfall try on a kaleidoscope of colors and projections set to rousing music. Perhaps more impressive than the show is the fact that an enormous waterfall can be controlled as if it were a kitchen appliance.

An encore before bedtime

As night settled in, we found ourselves under wire-mesh clouds twinkling with Swarovski crystals for the evening’s second sound and light show. Too beat to cap it off with a movie, we strolled back to the hotel and slept soundly in the shadow of the Changi Control Tower.

I barely heard the planes gliding by overhead.

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