I put the call out to three chef friends, asking for suggestions for using canned pantry proteins to make meals. All three suggested sardines. Nothing wrong with that. Sardines are a noble, if humble, protein. They’re inexpensive, and their cans are flat — easy to stack in the pantry.

Alan Wong provided a vivid description of a “simple, fast, bachelor breakfast” that he came up with more than 20 years ago. He treats oatmeal like rice porridge, similar to jook (Chinese) or okayu (Japanese). Canned sardines usually go on top, although canned corned beef, Spam or Vienna sausages are other options. Sometimes he’ll add a fried egg or miso soup.

“Lately, I eat natto every day, so it’s become a part of the sequence.”

Wong didn’t provide a recipe, but he did describe how he’d set up his breakfast for an Instagram photo: A bowl of oatmeal topped with natto, two sardines, some Japanese pickles and kim chee.

My two other consultants wrote up full recipes. I’ve never cooked much with sardines, but after trying these very different approaches, I’m sold.

BEFORE THE world turned upside down, chef Keith Endo of Vino Italian Tapas & Wine Bar was planning a trip to Italy and Morocco. His vacation may have been canceled, but that hasn’t stopped his explorations into new dishes.

This Moroccan salad is usually made with the Middle Eastern spice sumac, which you’d probably have to order online. He’s replaced it here with Mrs. Dash.

Swap out the fresh salad ingredients if you don’t have everything. Or, to simplify, just make the dressing and broil the lemons and sardines. Serve them over a plain bowl of greens.

BROILED MOROCCAN SARDINE SALAD

By Chef Keith Endo, Vino Italian Tapas & Wine Bar

• 3 Roma tomatoes, quartered
• Salt, pepper and olive oil, to taste
• 2 lemons, halved crosswise and ends cut off so they will stand
• 1 (3.75-ounce) can sardines (Brunswick brand preferred)
• >> Salad:
• 8 ounces baby arugula or other greens
• 1-1/2 cups cooked instant couscous or cooked rice
• 2/3 cup (4 ounces) canned roasted red peppers, cut in strips (optional)
• 1 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced radish
• 1/2 cup cooked diced panchetta or bacon
• 1/4 cup grated pecorino Romano cheese
• >> Dressing:
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• 1-1/2 teaspoons lemon-pepper seasoning (such as Mrs. Dash)
• 1/4 teaspoon paprika
• Salt, to taste

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Season tomatoes with salt, pepper and olive oil; roast 15 minutes. Remove and let cool.

Turn oven to boil and increase heat to 450 degrees. Broil lemon halves 7 to 9 minutes, until nice and charred.

Place sardines on sheet of foil on a baking sheet; season with pepper. Broil 2 to 3 minutes, until heated through.

Whisk dressing ingredients together in large bowl. Add salad ingredients except cheese; toss.

Top with tomatoes, sardines and cheese. Serve immediately with lemon halves to squeeze over salad. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt or olive oil to taste): 350 calories, 28 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 650 mg sodium, 12 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 16 g protein.

CHEF JOHN IHA of Gochi Grill says his grandmother used to make him a simple version of sardines with somen.

These days he uses canned sardines for bait when fishing.

“So whenever I come home from fishing trips and don’t use up the chum, I make this to eat.”

SARDINE SOMEN

By Chef John Iha, Gochi Grill

• 1-1/2 cups water
• 1 teaspoon saimin soup base or hondashi powder
• 1 tablespoon EACH oyster sauce and chili pepper water
• 1/4 cup EACH mirin and shoyu
• 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
• 4 cloves garlic, sliced
• 4 (3.75-ounce) cans sardines (Brunswick brand preferred)
• 1/2 bunch choi sum or other hearty greens
• 1 (16-ounce) package dry somen noodles, cooked al dente and drained
• 1/4 cup chopped green onion

Combine ingredients through garlic in medium pot; bring to simmer and cook 5 minutes. Add sardines; simmer another 2 minutes. Add choi sum, stir, then remove from heat.

Place somen in bowls, top with choi sum, then add broth, including sardines. Garnish with green onions. Serves 4 to 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 4 servings: 650 calories, 18 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 80 mg cholesterol, 1,500 mg sodium, 88 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 3 g sugar, 28 g protein.