Back in the Day: Cilantro and peas combine in a striking Peruvian rice dish

Edith Baughn is used to people raving about her Peruvian foods. But she was shocked when at a party, a stranger came up to her and said, “I must kiss the cook. That was so delicious!”

For the potluck party Baughn had cooked Peruvian green rice with shrimp, or arroz con mariscos, a dish she learned from her mother, Teresa Prinque, while growing up in Lima, Peru.

The rice gets its attractive green color from cilantro and peas. The healthy portion of cilantro is processed easily in a food processor or blender before it is added to the raw rice.

“Even those who do not usually like the taste of cilantro enjoy this rice,” Baughn said. The rice is addictive, with its unique taste from the combination of cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin and wine.

Shrimp and red bell pepper strips are mixed into the dish to provide bursts of flavor and contrast in colors. Scallops could be substituted for the shrimp.

Baughn insists on using long-grain white rice, not basmati, jasmine, short or medium- grain types. And when steaming the rice, keep the pot covered for 20 minutes before you check it.

“This was one of the basic rules from my mother,” Baughn said.

The dish can be made spicier by adding Peru’s signature seasoning, aji amarillo, that comes in the form of a yellow pepper paste or sauce. Aji amarillo is not easily found in supermarkets. Baughn finds it at Mercado De La Raza, a specialty store on Beretania Street. It’s also available online.

Aji amarillo adds a distinctive jolt of heat and flavor that cannot be substituted.

The pepper sauce is usually added to the rice to provide another layer of complexity to the dish. But to accommodate daughter Kirra, who doesn’t like spice, Baughn instead makes an optional side condiment of fresh lemon or lime juice, green onions, aji amarillo and olive oil. The combination is anything but timid.

“Lime and cilantro are best friends,” she said, explaining the compatibility of the rice and sauce.

Baughn calls her tasty green onion sauce Salsa Criolla, after a region in Peru. The combination is delicious, and the flavor immediately brings to mind a pairing with grilled fish or chicken.

A mammography specialist at Kapiolani Women’s Center, Baughn has made her green rice dish and its side of Peruvian hot sauce a staple at the Hawaii Kai home she shares with her husband, Chuck, and two children.

Cook this at the risk of being kissed.

PERUVIAN GREEN RICE WITH SHRIMP (ARROZ CON MARISCOS)

• 2 large bunches fresh cilantro, leaves and stems (about 4 cups)
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 teaspoon olive oil
• 2 teaspoons pounded or minced garlic
• 2 cups uncooked white long-grain rice, washed and drained
• 1 cup chicken broth or water
• 1/4 cup wine or beer
• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons frozen peas, defrosted
• 1/2 pound shrimp, any size, cleaned and peeled
• 2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
• 2 teaspoons cumin
• 1/2 red bell pepper, sliced (substitute yellow bell pepper)
• 1 teaspoon aji amarillo (Peruvian yellow pepper paste; optional)

In a food processor or blender, puree cilantro with water. Set aside.

In a large saucepan or pot with cover, heat oil on low and cook garlic until lightly browned. Add rice, chicken broth or water, wine or beer, and stir in cilantro puree. Add peas, whole shrimp, salt, cumin, bell pepper and aji amarillo, if using. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer and cover.

Cook on low heat until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes. At 20 minutes, test rice for doneness and season with more salt. Cook 5 to 10 more minutes if needed.

When rice is done, turn off heat, fluff with a fork and cover for 5 minutes. Serve with Green Onion Salsa as a condiment. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (includes aji amarillo but not including salt to taste): 470 calories, 3 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, 90 mg cholesterol, 1,700 mg sodium, 85 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 19 g protein.

GREEN ONION SALSA (SALSA CRIOLLA)

• 1-1/2 cups fresh lemon or lime juice
• 1 cup chopped green onion
• 2 teaspoons aji amarillo
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt

Mix ingredients in bowl. Let sit at least 2 minutes. Makes about 2 cups.

Approximate nutritional information, per 2-tablespoon serving: 10 calories, 0.5 g fat, 200 mg sodium, 2 g carbohydrate, 1 g sugar, no saturated fat, cholesterol, fiber or protein.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “Back in the Day,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via Instagram at @brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.