Back in the Day: Takoyaki a treat of many textures

One of Japan’s favorite snacks is takoyaki — “tako” means octopus and “yaki,” fried. Originally from Osaka, this inexpensive hot dish is served on nearly every street corner in the country and is eaten all year long.

Louis Wai started cooking the delicacy after seeing friends in Okinawa make it at get-togethers. The retired attorney now splits his time between Naha and Nuuanu.

“Good takoyaki is brown and crispy on the outside, but moist and tender inside,” Wai said. Two interesting textures inside will surprise: chewy pieces of cooked octopus and crunchy bits of fried tempura batter.

His recipe is delicious and complex, thanks to the many toppings he adds.

Takoyaki requires a special grill with rows of little wells that hold the batter and create the round shape. Each well is outlined by square “guides,” and batter must be poured to overflowing in each well to fill the sections. Cooked excess batter is then folded into the well, and the ball of batter is rotated in the well, to create the takoyaki’s round shape. It takes practice to perfect the technique of creating evenly cooked, perfectly round balls.

Wai says beyond mastering that technique, the dish is not complicated.

He starts off with a store-bought batter mix, preferring the Gindaco brand, which he buys in Okinawa. Other brands are found in Asian markets in Hawaii.

The flour batter is ready after adding water and an egg. After starting the batter in the takoyaki grill, he adds store-bought tenkasu, the leftover crispy bits of fried tempura. He prefers ika (squid)-flavored tenkasu.

Wai also takes a unique approach to the tako, adding two to three small pieces instead of a large piece.

“I like to add several pieces rather than just one piece as it makes you feel like you are getting more tako,” he said.

Along with the electric takoyaki grill, Wai bought other equipment to make his finished product look like the real deal. He uses special metal skewers to manipulate the dough, but says wooden skewers are a good substitute.

He also bought a Japanese brush to oil the balls of dough at least three times to achieve a wonderful crunch. The batter takes about 15 to 20 minutes to cook.

Some claim the toppings are the best part. Wai drizzles okonomiyaki or tonkatsu sauces over the hot tako­yaki. Then, using a special three-pronged squeeze bottle, he drizzles mayonnaise over it all.

Three other toppings complete the dish: bright green, finely cut seaweed called aonori; thin flakes of katsuobushi, shaved, smoked and dried bonito (aku); and green onions.

The takoyaki grill and all the specialty ingredients can be found at Asian grocery stores such as Don Quijote, Marukai Wholesale Mart and Nijiya Market.

Wai says friends request his takoyaki delicacy for parties.

“People love eating it, and I love making it,” says Wai. “It’s a labor of love.”

LOUIS WAI’S TAKOYAKI

• 7 ounces (200 grams) takoyaki batter mix
• 2 cups tap water
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 cup cooked octopus (about 4 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/4 cup tenkasu (bits of fried tempura batter; ika flavor preferred)
• 1/2 cup cooking oil
• Okonomiyaki sauce, to taste
• Mayonnaise, to taste
• Aonori (fine green seaweed), to taste
• Katsuobushi (dried bonito) flakes, to taste
• Chopped green onions (optional)

Heat electric takoyaki grill. In a large bowl, whisk tako­yaki mix with water and egg to make a thin batter.

Using an oil spreader or basting brush, coat grill with oil. Pour batter in grill, filling each well and surrounding area outlined by a square guide. Sprinkle with tenkasu and place 2 to 3 pieces of octopus in each ball. Cook about 5 minutes.

Using two turning sticks or bamboo skewers, maneuver batter along the guides and fold them into the wells. This excess dough will help form the ball. Rotate takoyaki using the sticks so cooked area is facing up. Baste generously with oil and keep cooking another 5 minutes. Baste with oil again and cook another 5 to 10 minutes, until takoyaki are brown and crisp on the outside. The brown color indicates the takoyaki is thoroughly cooked.

Place 6 to 8 cooked pieces on small platter, bamboo boat or paper plate. Top with okonomiyaki sauce, then mayonnaise. Sprinkle with aonori, katsuobushi flakes and green onions, if using. Serve immediately. Repeat until all batter has been cooked. Makes about 30 takoyaki.

Approximate nutritional information, per 6 takoyaki (not including “to taste” ingredients): 380 calories, 24 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 700 mg sodium, 31 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, no sugar, 9 g protein.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “Back in the Day,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.