Kaneohe Bakery bids adieu

Kaneohe Bakery may have started on a wing and a prayer 68 years ago, as founder James Mizota at first only stocked products made by Swan Bakery in Kapahulu, but his fledgling company learned to fly on its own.

Once he learned to bake, customers flocked to buy his custard and banana cream pies, dobash cakes and fresh doughnuts. Brownies and long johns became favorites of many children, and Thanks­giving pumpkin pies became part of family traditions that hundreds of the bakery’s Facebook followers reminisced about when the Windward institution announced its closure March 1. Its last day will be Sunday.

“Due to the difficulty of the current situation and the financial climate, Kaneohe Bakery will close permanently at the end of the month,” wrote co-owner Darlene Mizota, referring to the pandemic. “It’s been our pleasure doing business in this community for almost 70 years. We couldn’t have done it without our valuable employees and awesome customers.”

She declined any further comment, but a visit to the shop last week showed customers were happy to talk.

Hours had been drastically shortened to 5 a.m. to noon five days a week and all pastries were sold out by 10: 30 a.m. Cars kept filling the parking spaces fronting the bakery, moving in and out quickly as customers found only empty shelves.

Jerome Nozawa said it was his third unsuccessful attempt to pick up chocolate doughnuts and buttermilk crullers for his wife. “It’s disappointing. I’ve been coming around this time (10 a.m.) every day the last three days, and everything’s sold out.”

The 72-year-old Kaawa resident has been a regular patron since he was little, becoming hooked on the brownies. Kaneohe was different back then, Nozawa said, recalling a Lynn’s Market and a Dodie’s supermarket within a few blocks. “Everybody is missing the old places.”

Chantelle Abramson of Kaneohe yearned for several old favorites.

“My grandpa used to buy us dough­nuts, and I wanted to do the same for our kids, share the memory. I came here specifically for the long johns, my favorite.” Her family also loved the custard pie.

The bakery’s story was told on its website, which no longer functions: The business was founded in 1953 by James Mizota, who drove a delivery truck that sold baked goods, including Swan Bakery’s. He was persuaded by customers to open a bakery in Kaneohe, as there was no other around.

At first Mizota drove to Kapahulu each morning to pick up fresh pastries to sell at his bakery, but he soon learned to make his own from Swan’s Jimmy Uehara, who became a good friend and mentor. Mizota’s brother Tsugio and three sisters helped him run the business, and Tsugio later became head baker; Tsugio’s wife, Ellen (Nishimura), became an accomplished cake decorator.

James Mizota’s son Glenn, who earned a degree in baking from the Dunwoody Industrial School in Minnesota, took over in 1977 when his father retired; Glenn’s wife, Darlene, oversees the business side of the bakery, which employed a staff of 25. The elder Mizota died in 1985.

Kaneohe Bakery is located at 45-1026 Kamehameha Highway; 247-0474. Open 5 a.m. to noon Wednesday through Sunday. Closes March 28.