A sure sign that tourists are back is their omnipresence in restaurants outside the stock recommendations shared with visitors, like where to find malasadas or Hawaiian food.
A Hawaii Kai friend groused that once, she could walk into Liko’s Tap & Table at any time. Now, she gets turned away, supplanted by tourists with reservations. I could see her frustration was exacerbated by inexperienced, charmless young hostesses. Don’t worry, the servers compensate for any lack of hospitality at the door.
Before listening to her rant, I had visited the restaurant at 3 p.m. on a Sunday to avoid the lunch crowd, but yes, it was packed for happy hour by a mix of tourists and locals. Calling ahead does pay off because it might allow you to reserve one of only four tables on the deck overlooking the picturesque Kuapa Pond. Unless you’re an avid sun worshipper, it’s generally too hot outside at lunchtime, but it’s perfect in the late afternoon to early evening.
Even if you don’t score a deck table, the high ceilings and open ambience contribute to a laidback summer vibe that would explain Liko’s attraction to out-of-towners and anyone else looking for a chill hangout. The casual but impressive bar menu that meets every expectation one would have at a family restaurant is a plus. I’m not a bar person, especially staying away from those with a lot of TV screens because I find them too distracting. If there’s a screen, 98% of my attention will be directed there instead of the people in front of me. It caused some discomfort one evening at a Korean bar when a male friend of a friend thought I was interested in him because he thought I was staring at him all evening. Uh, definitely not. I was staring at the K-pop videos on the screen behind him.
That’s not the case at Liko’s because the multiple screens showcasing sports and food channels are placed high above the sight line, with volumes turned down, and the cavernous space renders them unobtrusive. It left me free to focus on the food, which they take pride in preparing from scratch.
Brunch is a popular draw here, offered from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. daily, and starting at 8 a.m. on lazy Sundays. The a la carte menu is short but sweet with only five items, expanding to 10 if you consider variations like the eggs Benedict on grilled baguette with your choice of Pono Pork ham ($18), kalua pork ($19), crab cakes ($28) or Atlantic lobster ($29), or the two-egg breakfast with bacon ($16), Pono Pork ham ($18) or rib-eye steak ($35).
Avocado toast ($18) topped with microgreens, roasted grape tomatoes and a soft-poached egg is another favorite, and thirst quenchers such as Liko’s signature mai tai ($13), a lychee mule ($12) and blackberry bourbon iced tea ($14) offer more reasons to be here.
If you need more brunch options, the lunch menu is also available. A lunch/dinner menu is offered all day from 10 a.m., although a short list of dinner specialties kicks in at 4 p.m.
The starting point for lunch and dinner is a roster of classic sandwiches and bar fare, plus “small” plates to share with friends or family, if you call dishes like 10 or 15 chicken wings ($17; $24) or nachos ($24) stacked 6 or 7 inches tall, small. The deep-fried wings are lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, and come with four sauce options that allow you to flavor them to your taste. I liked them just fine plain, but also enjoyed the ranch, blue cheese and Buffalo sauces. I couldn’t place the source of sweetness of accompanying barbecue sauce, but rereading the menu, found it was papaya, which tempered the boldness of a more typical barbecue sauce.
I enjoyed the nachos, coated with a Mornay cheese sauce with black beans, jalapeños, tomatoes, onions and cotija cheese, with house salsa and lime crema. Even better, because I had accidentally arrived during happy hour, the price was reduced to $12; happy hour wings are 10 for $10. The nachos had so much flavor, no meat was necessary, but carnivores will be happy to know that carnitas or shredded chicken can be added as toppings for $3 each.
I also enjoyed the smoky flavor that saturated a dish of bacon mac and cheese ($17) filled with plenty of crumbled bacon, smoked Gouda, Gruyere and kiawe-smoked pecorino.
In comparison, a Kunoa Cattle Co. beef burger ($19) seemed basic. I would spend extra to add bacon ($4) and avocado ($3). A fish sandwich ($19) with lettuce, tomato and coleslaw on a brioche bun also seemed basic in the moment, but is actually one of the best on the market. I appreciated the fresh mahimahi and light crispy batter. The fish varies daily based on availability.
The dinner special menu adds weightier items like scampi ($29) and a slow-roasted prime rib ($35).
Although far from my usual stomping grounds, if I lived in the neighborhood, I’d definitely be a regular here.
Liko’s Tap & Table
377 Keahole St. Ste. C2, Honolulu
Food: ***½
Service: ***½
Ambiance: ***½
Value: ***½
Call: 808-394-5456
Hours: 10 A.M.-10 P.M. Mondays-Saturdays, 8 A.M.-10 P.M. Sundays
Prices: About $40-$50 for two without alcohol
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
