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Two Denver neighborhoods and an arts district offer new hotels, restaurants and plenty of outdoor activities

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                Mimosas in the Five Points neighborhood is a charming place to have brunch.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    Mimosas in the Five Points neighborhood is a charming place to have brunch.

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                People buy ice cream from High Point Creamery at Denver Central Market, a bustling food hall and grocery in the RiNo arts district.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    People buy ice cream from High Point Creamery at Denver Central Market, a bustling food hall and grocery in the RiNo arts district.

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                McGregor Square features a large outdoor plaza in Denver’s LoDo neighborhood.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    McGregor Square features a large outdoor plaza in Denver’s LoDo neighborhood.

  • NEW YORK TIMES
                                The narrow alleys in RiNo, an arts district of Denver, is ­decorated with urban art and festive lights.

    NEW YORK TIMES

    The narrow alleys in RiNo, an arts district of Denver, is ­decorated with urban art and festive lights.

While many Denver locals head for the hills in summer — as in the nearby Rocky Mountains — others know that staying in the city can be just as satisfying in this active, outdoors-­oriented town. As events, live music and Colorado Rockies baseball games regain their status as popular draws, and patios, alleyways and newly closed-off streets welcome diners and beer enthusiasts, Denver feels fairly back to normal amid the lingering pandemic.

Currently, Denver is at the “clear” level on Colorado’s six-tier COVID-19 dial. Masks are required only for those unvaccinated in certain settings you’re unlikely to visit (think: prisons), though people who are not vaccinated are encouraged to wear masks in all public indoor settings.

In particular, two neighborhoods and one arts district — LoDo, Five Points and RiNo, respectively — merit exploring right now, thanks to new hotels and restaurants, and cultural attractions that can be enjoyed largely outside. All of them are served by Denver’s light rail system, and the city started a new bike and scooter share program in May.

LoDo

The rehabilitation of Denver’s historic Lower Downtown, or LoDo, took off in the mid-1990s when Major League Baseball arrived and Coors Field, home to the Rockies, was erected. Former warehouses gained second life as restaurants, bars, lofts and offices, joining the city’s first brewpub, the Wynkoop Brewing Co. (1634 18th St.), which was started in 1988 by John Hickenlooper, now a Colorado senator, and partners. (Interpretive signs on key buildings provide insight into the area’s history.)

The neighborhood received another jolt of energy in 2014 when Union Station was extensively upgraded, adding a hotel, restaurants and shops to the longtime transportation hub. Now more recent developments like McGregor Square, which began opening in March, and the Dairy Block offer even more to do.

A sports vibe dominates McGregor Square, beginning with the new 182-room Rally Hotel (1600 20th St.; rooms from $225), which lies 528 feet from Coors Field — just a bit longer than one of the blasts Pete Alonso hit to win this year’s All-Star Game Home Run Derby at the stadium. Baseball-inspired design cues range from subtle to overt, like glove-stitched leather headboards and Rockies memorabilia in the lobby (the team owner, Dick Monfort, partnered in the development).

The square also houses Tom’s Watch sports bar (with custom brews from AC Golden, a craft division of Coors), restaurants (including a second location of Carmine’s, a longtime favorite for family-style Italian) and a two-story branch of the Tattered Cover bookstore, a Denver institution beloved by bibliophiles. Above the stadium-shaped outdoor plaza, a large LED screen broadcasts Rockies games and other sporting events, as well as weekly free outdoor movies through Sept. 1. And, of course, the real thing is just across the street; the Rockies have several more homestands before the end of the season.

McGregor’s Milepost Zero food hall, however, currently lacks the appeal of the one across the street at the Dairy Block (1800 Wazee St.), where a historic building was transformed into a hotel and where there are boutiques, restaurants and a lively food hall called Milk Market, run by prolific Denver chef Frank Bonanno. A pedestrian alley bisects the block-wide complex, evoking a quasi-European feel with tables for outdoor dining, brick-fronted buildings, strings of lights overhead and murals.

RiNo

Usually described as a neighborhood, RiNo (for River North) is technically an arts district made up of portions of five neighborhoods in North Denver, said Tracy Weil, the district’s co-founder and executive director. Within a onetime industrial zone of low-slung buildings, RiNo’s 400 acres include not only artist studios and galleries, but more recently, a mushrooming number of high-end condos, hotels, coworking spaces, restaurants and breweries — many in refurbished buildings — that have given the area its hipster cred.

The district is spread out and blocks are long, so it helps to have a destination in mind when walking (or hop on one of the popular Lime scooters favored by 20- and 30-somethings). RiNo’s website gives an excellent overview of where things are.

For a look inside many studios, check out the monthly First Fridays (6 to 9 p.m.). But RiNo’s best-known art form — an eclectic array of more than 100 outdoor murals on buildings, on shipping containers and in alleyways — can be viewed anytime. Denver’s intense sunlight, a result of the city’s mile-high location, seems to make these colorful artworks even more vibrant. A new interactive map, correlated with QR codes on the murals, gives details on the creators. The two-hour Denver Graffiti Tour (weekends at 10 a.m., $30) interprets some of the murals on a stroll through RiNo, while Zilla Charter hosts occasional tours led by the artists themselves.

In place of an annual festival that introduces new art, murals are now added monthly. Among the most recent: an installation created partly by local youth at the new Burton snowboards retail store (Walnut and 27th streets) and a series on garage doors (Blake and 29th streets), created by seven Colorado artists for Black History Month. Two graffiti crews are collaborating on a mural in the alley behind Denver Central Market (2669 Larimer St.), a bustling food hall and grocery, through the end of August.

Other art events include exhibitions at No Vacancy (2722 Chestnut St.), which, through the end of September, hosts 16 artists for four-month residencies in a warehouse slated for redevelopment this fall. And RiNo’s new ArtPark (1900 35th St.) is set to officially open on Sept. 25 with a three-day community celebration.

At Number Thirty Eight (3560 Chestnut St.), a now-thriving restaurant, bar and entertainment complex that opened in October, the 18,000-square-foot patio (kids and dogs allowed) includes two beach volleyball courts, an outdoor movie screen and a full stage; a new agreement with a concert promoter brings in national acts like Wynonna Judd (Friday) and Sam Bush (Sept. 9).

Five Points

Named for the intersection of Washington, Welton, 26th and 27th streets, the neighborhood northeast of downtown Denver was once known as “the Harlem of the West” for luminaries like Billie Holiday and Count Basie who played in local clubs in the 1930s to the 1950s (one of these venues, the Rossonian Lounge, is being redeveloped into a hotel). Five Points was home to many of Denver’s Black residents for the first half of the 20th century, and it remains a rich source of African American culture and enterprise, though the racial makeup has changed.

The neighborhood is vast (and includes part of the RiNo Art District), but for a hub of outdoor dining and music — albeit still in transition — visit Welton Street, which has been designated the Five Points Historic Cultural District between 24th and 30th streets.

As new businesses take hold, restaurants, retailers and a yoga studio still alternate with empty storefronts. During brunch on the new Mimosas’ cheery back patio (2752 Welton St.), bright with colorful chairs and umbrellas, dishes included sweet and savory cheddar-topped scrambled eggs and house-made pork sausage served with potatoes and a fluffy waffle ($17), and, yes, five kinds of mimosas ($8 to $10). A few doors down, Welton Street Cafe (2736 Welton St.) has been dishing up Caribbean-inflected soul food for more than 20 years (honey hot chicken wings are a favorite), while Rosenberg’s Bagels and Delicatessen (725 E. 26th Ave.) buzzes on weekend mornings as patrons pick up their dozen. The secret ingredient? Water filtered to replicate that from New York City taps. Sherry’s Soda Shoppe (2716 Welton St.) serves a Brown Cow ($5.50) and other classic ice cream treats. One of the newest spots, MBP (for mood, beats, potions; 2844 Welton St.), offers entrees like blackened red snapper and New York strip steak, plus dessert martinis, on its back patio, as well as live music occasionally.

Among the neighborhood’s cultural institutions, Cleo Parker Robinson Dance celebrated 50 years in 2020; the company also offers classes for all ages ($8 to $15, preregistration required), including outdoor Zumba, and maintains a theater in a renovated church. Another cultural gem, the Black American West Museum and Heritage Center, is currently closed for restoration. You can get a glimpse into Five Points’ trajectory via a self-guided walking tour that highlights the neighborhood’s history through short accounts and photos posted on some of Welton’s buildings, like the site of a former sporting goods and record store opened in 1939 by Leroy Smith, a radio deejay, music promoter and community activist. A new mural project this summer on the backside of Five Points Plaza (2756 Welton St.) includes portraits of jazz artists, baseball players and well-known residents.

Sit for a spell outside the Spangalang Brewery (2736 Welton St.) and sip a fruit-­forward Welton Streetwine Cooler ($7) that’s like summer in a glass. Live jazz concerts on the patio, shared with the neighboring street-taco joint Agave Shore, take place on Wednesdays from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Visit Goed Zuur (2801 Welton St.) in a corner-front brick building for a charcuterie plate or the delectable stracciatella (mozzarella curd), served with honeycomb, sugar snap peas, lemon-verbena kombucha dressing and a baguette. Finish off with a corn cookie topped with crispy pork belly and rosemary caramel, an appealing blend of salty and sweet. One of some two dozen sour beers on draft makes the perfect accompaniment.

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