Mini food courts rise to the occasion

Weeks before the recent government mandates restricting restaurant crowd sizes to 50% capacity, diners had already begun policing themselves.

With the pall cast by the spread of the delta variant of COVID-19, I noticed the drop-off of numbers of patrons in dining rooms once case counts rose above 600 per day, and restaurateurs I spoke to estimated their businesses had dropped by about 25% in recent weeks. The anxiety all over town was palpable as they feared a shutdown was imminent and mentally braced themselves for a return to takeout service.

As a matter of survival, businesses have done their best to rise to the occasion, and in just a little over a year, the pandemic has already driven them to think smaller, as in quick over-the-counter service for risk-averse clientele.

A couple of mini food courts have popped up in some unexpected spaces as if on cue, just ahead of the Safe Access Oahu program that goes into effect Sept. 13.

Diners will have to show proof of vaccination or a negative COVID-19 test result before being allowed to enter a restaurant, bar and other venues beginning that day, but takeout businesses will be exempt from the new mandate.

These mini food courts offer a few more alternatives for those who want to limit their exposure to indoor public spaces.

808 Center

808 Sheridan St., Honolulu

A corner space closest to Walmart Keeaumoku typically housed one restaurant but has now been subdivided into three units. The first to open is Yum Sap, serving up a small menu of Laotian and Thai food to-go. It may be a fast concept, but what is served is not fast-food so if you’re in a rush it’s best to look elsewhere. Food here is cooked from scratch and the process can be slow if many people are ordering at once. For that reason, diners can get a 10% discount with a 24-hour preorder.

There are about 14 menu items including classics, from green papaya salad ($8), a Lao crispy rice salad ($8), Lao fried chicken ($8), or pad thai ($12) with protein choices of chicken, beef, pork, tofu or vegetables. It’s $14 if you opt for shrimp. My favorite dishes here are the housemade lemongrassand herb-accented Lao sausage served sliced with jasmine or sticky rice, and the panang curry ($12/$14). The peanut curry is less creamy than others, but I like the added zip of chile oil.

Open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, and 4-8 p.m. Sundays. Call 808-744-5343.

Royal Hawaiian Dining Plaza

2239 Waikolu Way, Waikiki

The ground floor of an apartment building has been transformed from residential units to a commercial alley that accommodates guests in outdoor patio-style seating. Three out of six businesses have opened at the spot.

Aloha Bowl

This eatery describes itself as a purveyor of Asian cuisine, but the menu looks local because of its mix of Japanese, Korean and Chinese influences in about 12 dishes, ranging from a chicken katsu plate ($14) to mapo tofu over rice ($12), to a Korean-style cheese corndog ($6).

They’re most proud of their chicken karate ($12) and a garlic shrimp plate ($14) with rice, corn and mac salad that’s plenty flavorful as is, but can be spiced up if desired.

A teri burger is made in the Japanese tradition of combining beef and pork to enhance texture, flavor and juiciness. It’s $14 with fries that can be served plain or topped with a fiery spice blend.

Open for brunch and dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays. Call 808-888-0682.

Ezogiku Commons

Ezogiku was the first specialty ramen shop from Japan to launch in Waikiki in 1974. Though it expanded over the years, Ezogiku only had one shop remaining in Pearl City before opening this small spot serving a small menu built around its specialty miso ramen ($9.95).

While other ramen shops around town have raised prices to nearly $20 per bowl, Ezogiku’s ramen is still Japan priced at $9.25-$9.95.

Order any ramen bowl and you can add a four-piece order of juicy gyoza for $2.50, or a combination of mini fried rice and four pieces of gyoza for $5.

Regular prices are $9.95 IRU D IXOO RUGHU RI WKH ÁDYRU-ful fried rice, and $5.75 for six pieces of gyoza.

Open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily. Call 808-379-0490.

Leo’s Taverna

I was elated to see Leo’s Taverna now open in Waikiki. Opened by Tony Boyadjian, the casual restaurant KDV EHHQ D À[WXUH LQ GRZQ-town Honolulu since 2000.

While other Middle Eastern restaurants have come and gone over the past two decades, Leo’s Taverna remains one of Oahu’s go-to spots for gyros, falafels and the like.

Boyadjian, originally from Armenia, named the business after his son Leo, who now works the kitchen at the original establishment, while Boyadjian mans the newest takeout counter, overseeing a menu of about 16 dishes.

The gyro is also available as a plate ($14.25) that includes hummus, a small salad, rice, pita and tzatziki sauce, or as a salad ($14.25) with the thin gyro slices served over a bed of lettuce, tomatoes and onions, served with pita and tzatziki sauce.

Also available are a roasted chicken wrapped in tortilla ($12.95), falafel plate ($14.25) or sandwich ($9), and rich roasted eggplant and tomato stew ($14.25) served over rice and also accompanied by hummus, rice, salad and pita.

Don’t forget to close your meal with an order of baklava ($3.25 per piece).

Open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily. Call 808-379-0352.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).