I felt a sense of dread when COVID-19 struck nearly two years ago, not only because of the threat to lives, but also livelihoods. How would restaurants survive and who would have the cojones to open to the reduced capacity of a pandemic world? But restaurateurs have always been a courageous lot, optimists in a business where odds for survival are known to be low. This year, just like any other, new restaurants kept coming and a few trends that took hold at the very start of the pandemic became institutionalized. Here’s what I saw in 2021.

We took a green turn.

Hawaii is a meat-eating state, the requirement for animal protein long codi fied as the centerpiece of our plate lunches. Whenever I asked restaurateurs why they wouldn’t add more green options to their menus, the stock answer was that people asked for them but never ordered them, given the more celebratory nature of dining out. The pandemic had people rethinking their relationship with food as a matter of survival and as tools for building immunity and a number of vegan eateries emerged, from casual to high-end to serve dabblers, transitioners and those already living the vegan life.

Vegan City appeared in Kapahulu, and Leahi Health opened a new shop in Manoa Marketplace. Badass Burgers opened in Liliha to offer decadent vegan burgers that mimic the real deal.

In Kaimuki, AV Restaurant took vegan cuisine to the next level with a high-end molecular gastronomy omakase experience that allows diners to revel in elevated cuisine rather than eat-to-live sustenance fare, and the kitchen is a laboratory for exploring all the possibilities vegetables offer.

At year’s end, Paris Hawaii reopened as NatuRe, building further on its original concept of sustainability with more concentrated eco practices such as repurposing cooking oil for lighting and partnering with farms for composting, and adding a vegan tasting menu in addition to its standard tasting menu, plus a la carte vegan selections.

We drank our way to recovery.

According to a Columbia University study, liquor store sales increased 20% nationwide during the early months of the pandemic, from March through September 2020. Part of the increase can be attributed to the vacuum left by mandated closures of bars and breweries. Once restrictions were lifted stylish new bars surfaced this year, combining alcohol with zero-proof offerings and sophisticated grinds in case restrictions were to return.

At Bar Maze, Bar Leather Apron’s Justin Park and Tom Park (no relation) recruited chef Ki Chung from Michelin-starred Aubergine at L’Auberge Carmel to create inspired omakase dinners and cocktail/mocktail pairings. An a la carte menu is also available.

Senia’s Anthony Rush missed the bar experiences he enjoyed in London and New York and transformed what had been a mom-and-pop grocery in downtown Honolulu’s Joseph W. Podmore building into a chic, sophisticated space appointed with plush hunter green velvet banquettes and brass fixtures.

He takes a culinary approach to cocktails with kinetic features to dazzle the eye and delight the palate. By night, a mix of savory snacks and sweet desserts keep the alcohol at bay. A full English breakfast, Italian toast and bubble, and squeak sous vide egg are some of the dishes that await brunch goers.

And surprise, surprise, by year end Foodland had entered the arena by creating Eleven, a chic modern lounge within its Ala Moana Center store, offering artisan cocktails, snacks and small plates of dishes served on various forms of artisan breads or rice cakes.

We indulged in lobster rolls.

The East Coast-style lobster roll is one of my favorite foods and, a few years ago, you could not find one in Honolulu. The pandemic had restaurateurs considering diners’ needs and what was missing from the food scene, and suddenly lobster spots proliferated.

Fat Cheeks Hawaii, which started as a pork specialist, was reinvented as a lobster roll specialist with something for every preference, whether hot or cold roll, butter or mayo options, or piling on extras of truffle butter and bacon.

On Monsarrat, Bogart’s introduced its own “Naked” Maine lobster roll simply drenched in butter over King’s Hawaiian sweet rolls and served with waffle fries.

Downstairs in the Waikiki Business Plaza, Topped’s Justin Sok introduced Royal Lobster, with nearly a whole Maine lobster drenched with butter on brioche. It comes with a side of onion-garlic aioli for those who think butter is not enough.

California-based Wicked Maine Lobster set up shop at Royal Hawaiian Center, bringing its Cali twist to the lobster roll with the offering of lobster tacos and a California lobster roll with avocado, lettuce, tomato and bacon, in addition to its standard buttered lobster roll. Without a sense of Hawaiian style, the amount of lobster in their rolls pales in comparison to the local offerings.

We grazed on charcuterie.

With nothing to do and nowhere to go at the start of the pandemic, restaurateurs and hospitality companies stayed in touch with clientele by hosting online cocktail hours, teaching people how to make cocktails and create charcuterie boards. Where few people might have opted for a grazing dinner before, it suddenly became an easy, elegant date-night option for couples stuck at home 24/7 or small gatherings of friends.

Eye-catching charcuterie boards and boxes filled Instagram posts and were soon being sent to friends as smile-inducing pick-me-ups for days that dragged on or for special occasions, and an industry was born.

On this island, you can get a charcuterie board delivered by Fig & Ginger Honolulu, Graze HNL, Meet to Eat Charcuterie or Spreadly.

The biggest name to throw his hat in the ring is chef Fred DeAngelo, who launched Bubbly & Bleu, now with a space in Kaimuki for those who want to browse the selections before buying.

Thank you to all the restaurateurs who have worked so hard for us throughout these past two years in the most trying circumstances.

I’m looking forward to a stronger new year. Happy eating in 2022!

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).