From-scratch dumpling dough requires only two ingredients — flour and water — and the water temperature yields different types of wrappers. Cold water is best for boiled dumplings because it causes the flour’s proteins to form the gluten that makes dough chewy and able to withstand vigorously boiling water. Hot water denatures flour’s proteins, resulting in dough supple enough to roll very thin and into tender wrappers ideal for pan-fried and steamed dumplings, such as chile crisp dumplings. The hot water for this dough should be hotter than warm and cooler than boiling and can come from the faucet’s hot tap. Letting the dough rest allows it to more fully absorb the water and relax, which will make rolling even easier.

Homemade Dumpling Wrappers

Ingredients:

• 2 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more if needed

• 3/4 cup hot water

Directions:

Place the flour in a large bowl and set the bowl on a damp kitchen towel so it won’t slip. Add the hot water in a steady stream while stirring with chopsticks or a fork. Stir until all the flour is hydrated and the mixture becomes shaggy. Let stand until cool enough to handle, 2-5 minutes.

Use your hands to gather and knead the shaggy mass into a ball in the bowl. Turn out onto a work surface and knead until slightly elastic, 5-10 minutes. The dough should be tacky but not sticky, and it won’t look completely smooth. If it sticks to the surface, flour the work surface lightly and continue kneading. Knead into a ball and cover loosely with a clean damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Let stand for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Divide the dough in half. Roll one piece to a 1/16-inch thickness. You shouldn’t need to flour the surface while rolling, but do so if the dough is sticking. Once the dough is thin enough, lift it off the surface, flour the surface lightly and place the dough back down. Cut out 3 1/2-inch rounds as close together as possible, then gather the scraps and cover the rounds with the damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Repeat with the remaining dough and knead those scraps with the first batch of scraps, then let rest for 5 minutes before rerolling and cutting. Use the wrappers immediately for dumplings, such as chile crisp dumplings.

Total time: 45 minutes, plus resting; makes about 35 wrappers.

Tips:

You also can roll the wrappers the traditional way: Roll the rested dough into a snake and cut into 35 even pieces.

Roll a piece into a ball, flatten slightly, then roll into a 3 1/2-inch round with a dowel, rolling the edges thinner than the center. Repeat with the remaining pieces.

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