A breakfast of champions

Since Wolfgang’s Steakhouse opened its doors in Waikiki in 2010, it has shown its expertise with steak. But can the steakhouse put out credible French toast or eggs Benedicts?

Breakfast lovers are about to find out as the lunch and dinner destination expands into morning hours with an impressive roster of early-riser favorites.

Those who flock to high-end venues for exclusivity and an unhurried experience are in luck. Wolfgang’s has always been known for its white tablecloth ambience and attention to details, but because breakfast is so new, it has yet to attract a crowd, making it a particularly pleasant tranquil start to a day.

Most of us don’t think about it, but studies have shown that the mood set in the morning stays with an individual all day, and I’d certainly feel better with a relaxed start rather than deal with crowd-induced anxiety.

Kamaaina don’t even have to worry about parking, which is free for three hours with a minimum $10 purchase and special validation available from the center’s first-floor Helumoa Hale Guest Services room.

If the restaurant’s name sets your intent on its specialty USDA Prime, dry-aged steak, there are several steak-and-egg combos that command hefty sums, but what steaks they are. You won’t find these anywhere else in the morning, though to be honest, I’m not sure how many people can manage a heavy meal so early in the day. I had one bite of a friend’s (not so) petite striploin ($54.95), and it was enough to satisfy my curiosity and small craving for steak.

Other cuts are a petite filet ($58.95), New York sirloin ($87.95), rib-eye ($105.95) and filet mignon ($109.95). Meat lovers might also gravitate toward lamb chops ($69.95) or veal chops ($63.95). Each selection comes with perfect rosemary-seasoned roast potatoes and two eggs, any style.

Another option if you want the taste of steak without a lofty financial stake is to opt for the filet eggs Benedict ($29.95) with Wolf-gang’s petite filet straddling a toasted English muffin, with poached eggs and light hollandaise sauce.

I was eying the classic Benedict ($15.95) with the promise of Wolf-gang’s renowned thick-cut Canadian bacon, one of my favorite appetizers on the dinner menu. I scanned past the crab cake Benedict ($28.95), imagining the kind of bready, dry specimen served at so many other restaurants. Then I remembered Wolfgang’s meaty crab cakes are my other favorite appetizer on the dinner menu, so I went with that and wasn’t disappointed. Layered with the crab cake were tomato slices and spinach.

Besides, that bacon is available as a side dish for $5.95, and if you’re on a budget, you can build your own breakfast for less than $20 by adding on other sides of two eggs ($5.95) and rosemary potatoes ($5.95).

The waiter we had was smart enough to make sure we knew the bacon was not the thin, crispy strips most people expect to see, but more like an inch-thick juicy slice of ham that, though delicious, may not be what they crave at the breakfast table.

The bacon also appears in the classic omelet ($18.95), along with bell peppers, caramelized onions, mushrooms and cheddar cheese. Or, choose to build your own omelet with three ingredients ($19.95) from a list that also includes Portuguese sausage, spinach, jalapeños, olives and feta cheese.

Morning carb loaders will find thick Hawaiian sweet bread French toast ($13.95) with berries, served with butter, whipped cream and maple syrup, as well as Belgian waffles ($13.95) served sweet with a layer of sliced strawberries and bananas, with a sprinkling of blueberries, or savory, as a bed for crispy fried chicken ($18.95).

Another morning favorite is a salmon bagel ($16.95) that may feature smoked salmon or lox, depending on supply. Most recently, smoked salmon was featured.

I was happy to see avocado toast ($14.95) on the menu, but the reality was a runny gray-ish mess. I don’t suppose they’re taking it very seriously because most people wouldn’t arrive at a steakhouse to order avocado toast, and the green crowd would never set foot in a temple of meat.

Those who do wish to dine light can enjoy a fruit plate ($12.95) of pineapple, melon and berries, or Greek yogurt ($12.95) with housemade granola, chia seeds, bananas, berries and honey.

Overall, the combination of setting, service, food quality and presentation would make a great start to any day.

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener

Royal Hawaiian Center,
2301 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki
Food: ***½
Service: ***½
Ambiance: ****
Value: ***
Call: 808-922-3600
Hours: Breakfast 7-11 a.m. Daily, Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m., All-Day Dinner to 11 p.m.
Prices: About $50-$120 for two without alcohol

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).