Depending on where you live, when March rolls around, either spring has sprung or you sorely wish it would start springing.

Getting tired of squash and parsnips? I am, too.

But, if some spring produce items, like the new-crop turnips or strawberries called for in these recipes, aren’t yet available in your region, give yourself permission to jump the season a bit. Buy onions and leeks at the farmers’ market, but get organic berries at the supermarket. (In Southern California, where I recently arrived, you’ll find strawberries at most farmers’ markets at this point in the year.)

Of course, you can find onions any time.

But this time of year, when the produce options are more limited, it’s nice to let them show off a little. Along with leeks and a little garlic, slowly softened onions serve as the base for a first-course savory tart. For the best-tasting topping, use a good, fruity extra-virgin olive oil, and season the alliums well with salt, pepper and thyme. Make this oniony base whenever you have 10 or 15 minutes to spare. It can sit at room temperature until you’re ready to put the tart together (or refrigerate it and use it within a couple of days).

Once the filling is ready, the bulk of the work is done. All that’s left to do is to spread the prepared onions on a sheet of rolled-out puff pastry, then top them with anchovy fillets and capers, and bake it to a golden brown. Use any kind of flaky pastry or pie dough you wish, or you can even spread the mixture on a yeasted pizza dough. But using store-bought or homemade puff pastry dough makes the most dazzling impression. Serve it slightly warm from the oven or at room temperature. A bowl of lightly dressed salad greens served alongside would also be welcome.

Onion Tart With Leeks, Capers and Anchovy

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 3 medium onions, diced (about 3 cups)

• Salt and pepper

• 3 medium leeks, white and tender green parts, diced (about 2 cups)

• 3 garlic cloves, minced

• 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

• 1 sheet store-bought all-butter puff pastry, thawed and rolled into a 10-inch circle (or use any favorite pie dough recipe)

• 2 teaspoons medium capers, rinsed

• 8 anchovy fillets

• 2 teaspoons snipped chives or chopped parsley

Directions:

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Put olive oil in a wide skillet or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. When oil is wavy, add onions and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper.

Add leeks, garlic and thyme, and cook for another 5 minutes, until leeks are soft ened but still bright green. Taste and adjust seasoning, then spread mixture on a baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

Lay pastry round on a rimmed parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread cooled onion mixture over pastry, leaving a 1-inch border. Fold over the border and crimp.

Sprinkle capers evenly over onion mixture. Arrange anchovy fillets on top.

Bake for 45 minutes, until the pastry is nicely browned. Cool tart for 5 minutes, then sprinkle the chives on top and cut into wedges to serve.

Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes, serves 4-6.

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