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It was cold. Well actually, I thought it was cold, but apparently I was wrong.
I know this because I was told so — repeatedly — by the residents of Fairbanks, Alaska.
The week I was there in February to see the northern lights, they were experiencing a “heat wave.” Some days, it almost got above freezing. For someone who has only lived in Florida and Hawaii, their words did not really warm me up.
However, I was prepared, and it was worth it.
The aurora borealis is a visual spectacle that occurs when the solar wind disturbs the Earth’s magnetic field.
Winter is the optimal time to see the northern lights (aurora borealis), and Fairbanks might be the best and most reliable place to do so for two reasons. First, with about 30,000 people, Fairbanks is not a large city. This makes it fairly easy to get out of town and away from light pollution. However, you still can see the northern lights in the city. The second is that Fairbanks is right in the middle of the aurora belt, which greatly increases your odds of seeing them. I managed to see them three out of the six nights I was there. They might have been out a fourth night, but I was passed out after previously staying up till 4 or 5 a.m. to chase the aurora borealis.
The first night I saw the northern lights was during a stay at Pike’s Waterfront Lodge (pikeslodge.com). They did not come out till about 4 a.m. and only lasted for 15 minutes. Pike’s was a great place to base myself; it’s located right next to the Fairbanks International Airport and a short distance to downtown. The lodge has two towers and several cabins right on the Chena River (which was frozen over). The resort also boasts one of the largest art collections in Alaska.
The second sighting of the lights was during a stay at Borealis Basecamp (borealis basecamp.net), which is located on 100 acres about 25 miles outside of Fairbanks. The night sky there has very little light from the city. The base camp features 20 white, man-made igloos with a bed, bath and very large window pointed northeast toward the main attraction.
The lights came out about 10 p.m. and stretched across the sky. The light show lasted for about 30 minutes. It came back about an hour later but not as strong. The northern lights can be fickle; you need to put in the time and hope for the best. During the down time you can catch some sleep and have the staff call your igloo anytime the lights show up.
The main building of Borealis Basecamp serves breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Latitude 65 restaurant, and they have coffee going through the night.
On the third night of spotting the lights, I went to Aurora Pointe (aurorapointe.net). About 15 minutes outside of Fairbanks, the facility, which specializes in aurora viewing, is mainly set up for people who are staying elsewhere in Fairbanks. It’s open from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m.; those odd hours work well for seeing the lights.
Aurora Pointe’s guides track the approaching lights from remote cameras. Next to the large outdoor area for viewing is a building where coffee, tea and cookies are served through the night.
This was the best viewing of the three nights. The lights came out strongly at about 11 p.m. and lasted quite awhile. I was able to go inside to warm up, get some coffee and then head back out to take more photos.
I have always wanted to see the northern lights — it was kind of a bucket-list thing. I am thrilled it worked out for me. However, even if it had been cloudy all week, I think I still would have had a good time. From a variety of museums to dog sledding and other activities, there are a surprising number of things to do in and around the city in the winter.
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More to explore
Fairbanks isn’t only about the northern lights. I discovered three excellent museums, a world-class ice sculpting contest and a hot springs resort.
1.University of Alaska Museum of the North
Info: uaf.edu/museum
The University of Alaska’s Museum of the North, which went through a major renovation in 2005, has become the architectural icon of Fairbanks. Its two floors house over 2.5 million artifacts and specimens. It is easy to spend an hour or two on each floor.
The first floor features special exhibits and the Gallery of Alaska, where you will find the history, wildlife and geography of the state, separated by region. It includes a polar bear, woolly mammoth, mastodon and Blue Babe, a 50,000-year-old mummified bison.
The second floor is home to the Rose Berry Alaska Art Gallery, which spans 2,000 years of Native arts, including ivory, masks, clothes and tools. There is also a large collection of contemporary art, paintings and photography.
2. Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum
Info: fountainheadmuseum.com
Car collectors might be somewhat obsessive when it comes to their passion, but I love what they do. I especially like to see large specialized collections, like the one you’ll find at the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum. It was surprising to see how this 25,000-square-foot museum showcases over 75 pre-World War II American automobiles. These are working autos, many of which are taken out and driven regularly. The museum also features vintage fashions from the same periods and a photo collection depicting the history of automobiles in Alaska. I spent more time there than I expected and never could figure out which was my favorite auto.
3. Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center
Info: morristhompsoncenter.org
While this free museum is smaller than the other two, it is large in impact and interest. The center is named after the late Morris Thompson, a Native Koyukon Athabascan with deep cultural values. Born in 1939, Thompson knew as a child that he wanted to “be a big man someday,” which earned him the nickname “Big,” according to the museum’s website.
He lived up to it: He worked for the U.S. Department of the Interior, became the commissioner of the U.S. Bureau of Indian Affairs and was the CEO of Doyon, one of the most profitable Alaska Native Corporations.
The museum showcases Native history and the local lifestyles throughout the seasons with dioramas and films.
Be sure to check out the “One Voice Makes a Difference” exhibit, which was my favorite. It celebrates the lives of various community leaders and the real difference they have made in peoples’ lives.
4. World Ice Art Championships
Info: icealaska.org
If you have the ability to time your winter visit, try to get there during the World Ice Art Championships. The next event will be held from Feb. 13 to March 31, 2023. With over 100 artists, it’s the largest ice carving contest in the world. It also includes several events and some interactive sculptures that are not part of the competition. It is open both day and night, with twilight being the best time to both see and photograph the ice.
5. Chena Hot Springs Resort
Info: chenahotsprings.com
My last day in Alaska was spent at Chena Hot Springs Resort, about an hour and a half outside of Fairbanks. The 115-year-old resort is a wonderful place to see the northern lights. Unfortunately, it was cloudy that night, but there are other things to do. Activities include dog sledding, the Aurora Ice Museum — complete with an ice bar — and, of course, the hot springs.
I did all three but most enjoyed the ice bar in the museum. Built with over 1,000 tons of ice, the museum features ice sculptures, and in the bar, stools and drinkware are all made from ice. The lighting is spectacular and the place is just, well, cool.
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