‘Cuisines of the sun’

This was a food and wine event held annually at the Mauna Lani (Big Island) Canoe-House Restaurant. Last year, the event was revived by the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival for the first time at its birthplace, where it all began for the event. I had many wonderful memories of my time there and met some great people.

The Mauna Lani is a special place with a great history. The “Cuisines of the Sun” event helped put Hawaii on the culinary map. It was an event that was held for 11 years, hosting chefs and winemakers internationally. The media came and put the spotlight on Hawaii, our cuisine, farmers, products, culture and history.

The name “Cuisines of the Sun” says it all: It celebrated the food and drink of warm sunny climates around the world. I learned that the food and beverages of these countries had many things in common — a fondness for spices, chilies and bold flavors. I liked to compare the levels of saltiness, sweetness or acidity in each cuisine to Hawaii’s. There were many great talented chefs and winemakers who came to cook and share. It was always satisfying to hear from them that they not only had a great time but also learned a little about Hawaii, as well as our local bounty of ingredients from our farmers.

One particular year, Janice Wald Henderson, the creative person and coordinator behind “Cuisines,” told me to do an event called the “New Wave Luau.” Anything that mentions “new” means there was an old. I remember many talk stories with the hotel’s historian and great friend, Danny Aka ka Jr., about the old ways to give me a point of reference in making the menu. I also enjoy talking to many other kupuna to find out how early Hawaiians cooked and ate.

It was this learning process that led to many food ideas that had to do with taking something old and making it new. I didn’t realize it at the time, but it would become so much a part of how I look for inspiration in cooking by honoring the past. I asked Danny — who oversaw the ancient fishponds — to go throw net to catch fish and make poke for the event. It was not only the freshest poke you could ask for, but it was also a dish that gave a reference point to the real deal forever.

The Mauna Lani has been nicely renovated with many changes and improvements, even the CanoeHouse looks different, especially the kitchen. Many old-timers still work there, and it was great to see them again. Danny is still there, sharing knowledge and talking story with anyone that wants to learn. The most important thing for me, though, is that the spirit of the Mauna Lani still lives there.

My job is simple — it’s to help choose former alumni chefs from past “Cuisines” to come and be part of a dinner at CanoeHouse as one of the events on the Big Island for the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival.

This year, we are bringing back chefs Robert Del Grande, Sherry Yard and Dean Fearing.

The festival also puts a spotlight on Hawaii and the culture, people, farmers and products we produce. We ask the visiting chefs to cook with local ingredients. We ask them to participate in malama-aina-based activities. In many cases, it’s a great reunion of friends and the opportunity to create more wonderful lifelong memories with each other. The “old dogs” are getting back together again!

This year, it looks like back to normal with outdoor grazing events just like before.

Chef and restaurateur Alan Wong has wowed diners around the world for decades, and is known as one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Find his column in Crave every first Wednesday. Currently, Wong is dba Alan Wong’s Consulting Co.