Sheet pans aren’t just great for cooking vegetables. You can also put them to use when it’s time to throw some protein into the mix, as in this done-in-a-flash broiled salmon. Even better, there are all manner of ways you can flavor your salmon — brown sugar and mustard, miso and mirin, citrus and herbs — while sticking to this broiling blueprint.

Broiled Salmon with Mustard and Lemon

Ingredients:

• 2 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets, each about 1-inch thick

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

• Lemon wedges, for serving

Directions:

Position one oven rack 6 inches from the broiler heat source then heat the broiler. Season the salmon fillets all over with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a couple of grinds of pepper and place them on an aluminum foil-lined sheet pan, skin side down.

In a small bowl, whisk the oil and mustard until well mixed. Brush the tops and sides of the salmon with this mustard mixture.

Broil until the salmon is opaque with a deep brown crust, about 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare. (The center of the fillets will be dark pink, if you pierce one with a paring knife and take a look.) If your fillets are thinner, reduce cooking time by 1 to 2 minutes. If you prefer more well-done fish, add 1 or 2 minutes to the cooking time.

Squeeze a lemon wedge all over the cooked salmon fillets, then serve salmon with more lemon wedges on the side.

Total time: 15 minutes, serves 2.

And to Drink … :

Many wine lovers recognize salmon as a fish to eat with red wine, notably Burgundy or pinot noir. While that can be a wonderful pairing, the pungent mustard-and-lemon flavors in this broiled salmon recipe would go best with a white wine. My top choice would be dry riesling, whether from Germany, Alsace or Austria. A modest one would be fine, but this dish would complement an excellent bottle, too. If not riesling, how about a Chablis? The same is true: A young village wine would be good, a premier or grand cru with a little age even better. Other options? An Oregon chardonnay, a Savennières from the Loire Valley or a good assyrtiko from Santorini would all be delicious. If you are set on red, try a good cru Beaujolais. — ERIC ASIMOV

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