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Crave

Comforting breakfast bowl

In the pantheon of comforting donburi (Japanese rice bowl dishes like katsudon, oyakodon and gyudon), bacon and eggs aren’t traditional toppings by any means, but they sure hit the spot. Eggs, soft-scrambled in the bacon fat with mirin and soy sauce, serve as a gently sweetened duvet for the rice and a counter to the salty bacon. Mirin, the Japanese rice wine, does a lot of work here to take ordinary eggs and rice to restaurant-flavor heights. To level up the rice, stir in 1 tablespoon rice vinegar and 1 teaspoon mirin while fluffing it. A sprinkle of furikake (rice seasoning) and shichimi togarashi (seven-spice blend) might feel like gilding the lily, but their nuanced savoriness completes this dish.

Bacon and Egg Don
Ingredients:
• 1 cup medium-grain white rice, such as Calrose
• 3 slices thick-cut bacon (5 ounces), halved crosswise
• 4 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon mirin
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• Furikake and shichimi togarashi, for serving

Directions:
Rinse the rice in a sieve under cold running water, shaking constantly, for just a few seconds. Add to a medium pot with 1 1/2 cups cold water and soak for 10 minutes. Bring the water to a simmer over high heat, then reduce the heat to very low, cover and continue simmering without peeking for 17 minutes.

Remove from the heat, and as quickly as you can, open the lid, cover the pot with a clean kitchen towel and tamp on the lid again. Let the rice finish steaming, covered, until the grains are soft, distended and a little shiny, at least 10 minutes.

While the rice steams off heat, cook the bacon and eggs: In a cold skillet, lay the bacon in a single layer; add 1 tablespoon cold water and place over medium heat. Cook the bacon, flipping occasionally and lowering the heat if needed, until very crispy and the fat is evenly browned and no longer white, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel to drain and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the skillet.

In a bowl, stir the eggs, mirin and soy sauce to combine. Add to the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly and vigorously with a flexible spatula for the first 30 seconds then occasionally, so you end up with large curds, 2 to 3 minutes. The eggs should be set but still wet on top. Turn off the heat and cover with a lid to continue steaming in the residual heat, just a few seconds.

Uncover your steamed rice and fluff with a fork. Divide the rice between a couple of bowls and dust with furikake. Now divide the eggs between the bowls, followed by the bacon and a sprinkle of togarashi.
Total time: 25 minutes, serves 2.

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