When I go to schools or talk to anyone wanting to cook, I always recommend that they start by jumping into the industry and getting their first job. That’s how they find out if they like it or not!
They may learn that they don’t like it, and if so, then they’ll have saved themselves a lot of time, money and energy. It could even be in a fast-food restaurant washing dishes like I did; anything to get their feet wet, earn a dollar and see how hard it can be and what they may like about it.
After a few jobs, some cooks get torn about where they should go to work next and seek advice or input. I always recommend “staging” at more than one restaurant. A stage is basically an observation day to see the restaurant in operation. You’d see who you would be working with, how they work together, the final dishes and at what pace the team works. You get to see if you like them and in turn, they get to see who you are and if you would fit in with them.
I also say that if you make this a career, you should look to work, at least once, for a chef who is a teaching chef or who, at the least, creates a workplace culture and environment that supports learning and growing. One day, you may look back and reminisce about all the places you worked and say, “ That’s the restaurant where I really learned how to cook. The place made such a huge impact on me culinarily and personally.”
Most great chefs have at least one chef who mentored them. That chef mentor, the restaurant and the team, will be forever remembered by those whose futures they shaped. It’s not always a smooth road. In fact, it’s full of challenges, frustrations and adversity. Outside of cooking, some life lessons are learned. A busy kitchen is volatile — it is hot, full of stress and will test your physical and mental being. You are there to cook, but sometimes the most important thing you learn is about yourself and how much you can handle.
Such was my experience working at Lutèce in New York City in the early 1980s, when French restaurants were the kings. It was a four-story brownstone and the chef was André Soltner. He and his wife, Simone, lived on the top floor with the offices below, then below that, the first two floors were the restaurant. The restaurant garnered four stars in the New York Times. But, what had me interested was that it was one of the top restaurants in America and in New York City.
After doing my apprenticeship at The Greenbrier, I set my sights on Lutèce. After a short time working after graduating, I got my chance. This is where I learned how to cook. This doesn’t mean I didn’t know how to cook prior to Lutèce. What I mean is, I had to have a certain amount of experience before places like this even look at me.
This is where I really learned what French cooking was like in a highly regarded restaurant and at a high level. This was a true French restaurant. Besides getting my station ready for dinner service, I had to make the family meal for everyone. Next, I had to cook dinner for chef Soltner and his wife. To say that it was nerve-wracking is an understatement. The guy I replaced told me that if Soltner came down and fried his own eggs, that meant he didn’t like your cooking. My anxiety made me nervous as heck! But, over the course of a year and a half of cooking for him, he only came down to fry his eggs once.
The menu, orders and table numbers were all in French. It was intimidating at first, so I decided to take French language classes at the French Institute just to understand everyone. I felt like I was there to learn and follow the recipes as taught. The chef was big on building a good foundation for cooking. He stressed cooking with two feet on the ground. That meant classic fundamental techniques.
He was known for marrying classical techniques with fresh, first-class ingredients. He also wanted us to do different things and become well-versed in the kitchen. On the very last day I worked, I made the family meal with Chinese flavors since I knew chef Soltner liked Chinese food. He came down after his dinner and told me, “Thank you, it was great — where have you been this whole time?”
We both had a good laugh.
Sometimes, on Saturday mornings, it would just be chef Soltner and me in the kitchen and I would ask him questions. These were moments that I would cherish, especially remembering the conversations we had. After I left, he closed Lutèce. I would see him on visits to the city, and in that time we began talking and getting closer.
When you work in a kitchen you always say “chef” when you address the chef. When he calls the orders the reply is always “Oui chef.” Chef Soltner was the chef who gave me the opportunity to learn. My time there impacted me in such huge ways that remain with me today. It was there that I said to myself, “One day I would like to have a restaurant like this.”
T
hank you chef, for everything. You don’t know how much of an influence you had on me, my philosophy and my cooking. I try to emulate your humility and professionalism. You were a chef’s chef, and most importantly — you were my chef. Rest in peace chef, you deserve it. You worked so hard all your life. I will miss you a lot. André Soltner,
Nov. 20, 1932 – Jan. 18, 2025.
