Visitors to Accra, Ghana’s capital, are often jolted by the mix of a crowded, developing city of 2.7 million alongside low-rise bungalow communities where everyone seems to be on their smartphone. Residents live a boisterous small-town life in neighborhoods dating back to the 17th century as cranes and high-rises dot the skyline.

Ghanaian officials have worked hard to lure members of the African diaspora to bring their investment dollars here and make a life where race isn’t front and center. Even a brief visit to Accra brings this rich mix to the fore. Follow a visit to a castle where captives waiting to be taken to the New World were held in dank dungeons with a trip to see the Black Star of Africa sitting atop an arch, announcing Ghana’s independence.

Friday

2:30 p.m. Visit the city’s slave castle

Start with a guided tour of the gargantuan, white-stone Christiansborg Castle, also known as Osu Castle, on the edge of the Atlantic. This UNESCO World Heritage site in the bustling Osu neighborhood, the city’s downtown, was built in the 17th century by the Danes, and is one of over 20 forts and castles along the Ghanaian coast where captives were held before being ferried to the New World. Head down to the dank dungeons, where a hole in the ceiling is the only source of light. (80 Ghanaian cedis, or about $5, including the tour guide).

4:30 p.m. Climb to the Black Star of Africa

Stroll for 20 minutes or Uber over to nearby Independence Square, where you’ll find the Black Star, which sits above Independence Arch and symbolizes breaking free from the yoke of colonialism. Ghana was the first sub-Saharan country to declare independence, in 1957. Entrance is free, but tipping the keeper of the stairs afterward is encouraged (a suggested 20 cedis).

8 p.m. Ease into local cuisines

Wander over to one of Accra’s newest, tastiest noodle spots, Kishitei, which offers a light but flavorful first-night dinner. International visitors often find Ghanaian dishes heavy, and easing into the local cuisine helps avoid upset stomachs. You’re safe to indulge in the Ghanaian peppered chicken wings starter (150 cedis; dinner for 2,000 cedis).

9:30 p.m. Shake and shimmy

End the day by joining locals in raucous dancing to the live bands that frequent Zen Garden, in the quaint, upscale Labone neighborhood. The music is often a mix of traditional Ghanaian highlife and palm-wine music, with sounds created from a meld of acoustic guitars, local strings and percussion. Diners line-dance onstage and raucous singalongs are the norm. Share the large outdoor wooden tables and you’ll end up making new friends (entry, 50 to 100 cedis, depending on the band).

Saturday

8 a.m. Visit a Pan-Africanism shrine

Take a guided tour of the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Mausoleum, or wander the grounds on your own. This 5-acre park on High Street houses the remains of Ghana’s first president and his Egyptian wife, Fathia. When the former British colony gained independence, Nkrumah stood with other freedom fighters on this site and declared Ghana free forever. Its museum houses his papers, his books from his college days in America, smocks he wore as a freedom fighter, even his old car. In just a few hours, guests can learn the history of modern Ghana and understand why it became a beacon of hope for other colonized African countries. The fountains, sculptures and artifacts remain a magnet for visitors seeking Instagram posts (100 cedis with or without a guide).

11:30 a.m. Nab some handmade souvenirs

If you are in town on the first or third Saturday of the month, peruse the Green Butterfly Market at the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority park in the Cantonments neighborhood. Cobblers will create handmade shoes for you while you shop, and brightly colored cloth bags sewn by women at the tables of BASICS, a poverty-eradication nonprofit, make standout souvenirs (300 cedis). All proceeds go to education for the poor.

1:30 p.m. Sample Ghanaian ‘swallow’

Indulge in a proper Ghanaian lunch at Buka, in Osu. Lunch is the best time to try what’s broadly known as swallow. Here it’s boiled fufu, yams and cassava that pounded together to make a doughy mix, accompanied by a rich soup. Don’t miss the exquisite peppered snails (100 cedis), large African snails that are fried and served with green peppers, a local delicacy. Always on the menu is a lighter, mouthwatering jollof rice, a West African dish cooked with tomato sauce and filled with an assortment of protein. Buka’s version with chicken is a particular delight (500 cedis).

5 p.m. Browse Ghanaian art

Spend a few hours indulging in some of the best of contemporary Ghanaian art at Gallery 1957, inside the Kempinski Hotel in the Ridge neighborhood. Gallery 1957 has helped propel homegrown artists such as Amoako Boafo, Serge Attukwei Clottey and Rita Mawuena Bennisan onto the international art scene. Each fall, collectors descend on the gallery’s openings seeking to find the next West African star.

8 p.m. Splurge on a fusion dinner

Head over to Vine restaurant in the Labone neighborhood, in an old colonial-era compound. It is mainly outdoors under tents and cabanas with leafy foliage all around. The chefs mix Ghanaian and Western fare. The plantain chips on a bed of spicy black bean hummus (70 cedis) are a tangy jolt for the palate, while the chargrilled lamb chops (650 cedis) or the mackerel with yams (210 cedis) burst with flavor. Finish your dinner with the mango cheesecake infused with palm wine (90 cedis). Try ice-cold Chop Life premium, a Ghanaian take on craft lager brewed with cassava and maize (70 cedis).

Sunday

9 a.m. Preview the catch of the day

Jamestown and neighboring Usshertown, the oldest districts in Accra, are home to the 17th-century British Fort James, a former prison that once held Kwame Nkrumah, and the Dutch Ussher Fort. The area is mostly inhabited by the Indigenous Ga people, who often make their living by fishing. Skip the forts and head down to the Jamestown Fishing Harbor, and watch men fixing nets along the water’s edge. You may hear a smattering of different languages like Fanti, Nzema and French as some of these fisherfolk have come from other coastal towns as far away as Ivory Coast. (Early risers can catch a picturesque sunrise at 6:30 a.m.) As you leave, make a quick stop at the looming red and white Jamestown Lighthouse. This 92-foot structure was built in the 1930s. It’s an unofficial symbol of Accra.

10:30 a.m. Have a scrumptious brunch

Head to the Mix design hub for its popular all-day Sunday brunch. Take the stairs to the third-floor restaurant, and along the way check out the artwork and furnishings by Ghanaian artists trying to break through the world of international furniture design. Try the cocoyam chips with the fish ceviche or the cassava fish with plantain mash. The oven-grilled chicken yassa with couscous is a favorite. The kitchen is sometimes helmed by star chefs from across the region, so you might find temporary menu items on offer (Sunday brunch, with drinks, 2,000 cedis).

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This article originally appeared in the New York Times

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