I used to think prix fixe menus were only for special events or collaboration dinners. Why eat what the chef chooses when you can pick what you’re craving? But now that I appreciate food more — and have had my fair share of conversations with Hawaii’s talented chefs — I’ve become an advocate for ordering prix fixe menus whenever possible.
Sure, you may not get to choose your dishes, but that’s what makes it exciting. A prix fixe menu isn’t just a set of seasonal plates, it’s a story. It’s the chef’s opportunity to create something expressive and inventive, using ingredients at their peak to craft dishes that often aren’t available year-round.
Take chef Yuya Yamanaka. The talented Japanese chef recently reopened Paris.Hawaii under the Westman Corp. Many may remember when he first opened the restaurant on Seaside Avenue in Waikiki. It quickly became one of the city’s hottest dining spots and even earned a spot on USA Today’s Best New Restaurant list in 2019.
Now located in the former Hank’s Haute Dogs space at SALT at Our Kakaako, Paris.Hawaii has been reimagined as an intimate chef’s counter experience.
From nearly every one of the 20 seats, you’ll have a front-row view of the culinary team in action. The $85 prix fixe menu features six savory dishes and two desserts that take you on a flavorful journey through Yamanaka’s career.
Each dish blended French technique with Japanese refinements and a deep respect for local ingredients. Optional wine pairings (three or four glasses) are available, or you can opt for something from the thoughtful drink menu — its nonalcoholic and tea offerings are
especially popular.
The menu will change periodically, but you can always expect to taste produce grown right outside the restaurant. The surrounding mini-garden doubles as a landscape and a chef’s garden.
The first thing that stood out about the menu was the flavor profiles — something I hadn’t tasted before. Take the second course: The thinly sliced Kona kampachi was refreshing; the asparagus puree was earthy; there was an acidic profile from lime juice; the mango slices were sweet; and the smoked trout caviar was salty. Put it all together in one bite and it was a surprisingly balanced and completely original flavor explosion.
The presentation of the dishes was another highlight. The bouillabaisse soup — a traditional French dish where the broth is made from fish and, typically, saffron — was poured tableside into a wide-rimmed bowl showcasing 12 carefully arranged ingredients. It invited us to appreciate each component before combining them in a rich, warming spoonful. Adding to the visual feast, all the plateware was custom-ordered from Yoshinori Takemura in Japan.
Just when we thought the meal had peaked, we were brought housemade bread — pillowy-soft and perfect for soaking up every last drop of broth. We finished it off with a light sea asparagus butter for yet another
perfect bite.
Yamanaka’s creativity shined throughout the meal. In French cooking, a terrine is traditionally made from a mixture of ground meat, including liver and fat — popular versions of terrines are made from foie gras or duck or chicken liver. But at Paris.Hawaii, it took a sweet turn: Its version featured chocolate paired with macadamia nuts and vanilla ice cream. It was a rich, elegant and playful twist on the
classic dish.
The storytelling continued all the way through dessert. One of the desserts — an acai-based dish — was inspired by Yamanaka’s early memories of moving to Hawaii. One of the first things he learned after relocating was how to surf. And, of course, no surf session is complete without a post-surf acai bowl. It was a nostalgic nod wrapped in
refined technique.
From bold flavor combinations to thoughtful presentations, Yamanaka’s prix fixe menu was a master class in storytelling through food. Dining at Paris.Hawaii was more than a meal — it was an experience where we saw (and tasted) a chef’s personality unfold course by course. Hopefully, it’ll inspire you to say “yes” to the prix fixe menu more often.
