Iconic Ranch House eatery had deep Aina Haina roots

Possibly the most iconic restaurant in East Honolulu from the 1950s to 1987 was the Ranch House in Aina Haina.

It was on Kalanianaole Highway, on the mauka, town-side corner of West Hind Drive, and drew people from all over Honolulu.

The Ranch House was founded by Charles Lucas Jr. — whose family owned Niu Valley — and his mother, Mona Hind Holmes, says former Aina Haina Shopping Center manager Jim Napier, who grew up in the area.

Mona Hind was the daughter of Robert Hind, who started the Hind-Clarke Dairy and later developed Aina Haina. Mona had married Christian Holmes, who was an heir to the Fleischmann’s Yeast company. He owned Coconut Island in Kaneohe Bay and Queen’s Surf in Waikiki at one time. Mona Street, back in the valley, is named for her.

The Ranch House developed out of an ice cream parlor that was part of the Hind-Clarke Dairy, Napier told me, probably as early as the 1930s. The milking barns were just mauka of it, where Aina Haina Elementary School is today.

The Hind-Clarke Dairy Ice Cream Parlor had shady monkeypod trees in front and was a favorite place for many to visit.

The parlor had a few seats inside and a car hop service outside, Napier recalls. Former waitresses said they served every flavor imaginable, but vanilla was the most popular because it was used in shakes, malts and sundaes.

Charles Lucas Jr. and Mona Hind Holmes soon sold the Ranch House to a man named Rocco, who named it Rocco’s Farm House, Napier says.

Rocco sold it to Ken Emerson, who owned M’s Coffee Tavern downtown. "M" was from Emma Milliken, who began the restaurant in 1920. Emerson renamed it M’s Ranch House.

Emerson sold to Svend and Kay Andersen and Albert Schmidt, executive chef at The Royal Hawaiian hotel.

Many in the area remember the eatery used to have a covered wagon with "M’s Ranch House" painted in big letters. Longtime Aina Haina resident Alice Tucker remembers the waitresses, most of whom lived in the area, wore pinafore uniforms.

Tucker says it was a terrific family place that had an unbelieveable coconut cream pie, originally the specialty of M’s Coffee Tavern. Andrea Wagner remembers the fantastic breadsticks put on every table, but didn’t like the cheese sauce it came with.

Napier recalls huge paniolo-themed murals on the walls painted by Robert Lee Eskridge of roundups and cattle swimming out to ships at Kawaihae.

As for myself, I remember Olomana and the Makaha Sons of Ni’ihau playing there, when Israel Kamakawiwo’ole was still in the group.

I have a mid-1960s menu from M’s Ranch House and it’s interesting to look at the complete dinner prices. Mahimahi was $2.05. Shrimp tempura was $2.35. Lamb chops were $3.35 and lobster tail was $3.50.

A 1-pound broiled filet mignon was $5.50 and a 72-ounce top sirloin steak was $10.95, but free if you could eat it in an hour. A bone to take home for your dog — also free!

M’s Ranch House was sold to Spencecliff in 1968 and "M’s" was dropped. Spencecliff added a 300-gallon aquarium to the entrance, a Paniolo Bar and a pool table to Cliff’s Stockade. More than 500 people came when Sunday breakfast service began.

Spencecliff also added the Treasure Chest, says Robson Hind, Robert Hind’s grandson. Kids would get to pick a free prize with their meal, often a plastic boat, plane, car or puzzle.

The restaurant remained open until 1987 when Spencecliff sold its chain to Nittaku.

Nittaku foolishly, in my opinion, renovated the Ranch House into two restaurants. "The restaurant on the town side of the building became a coffee shop called Metro, and the bar and coffee shop on the Koko Head side became a fine-dining restaurant called Rockchild’s," Napier says.

"You entered the building through the same door and were asked if you wanted to dine in the coffee shop or the formal dining room. I thought this was strange and maybe was responsible for the early demise of Nittaku’s tenure." Both restaurants closed within a year.

If you have a Ranch House story, drop me a line. In the next month, I’ll spend some more time in Aina Haina.

Bob Sigall, author of the Companies We Keep books, looks through his collection of old photos to tell stories each Friday of Hawaii people, places and companies. Email him at Sigall@yahoo.com.