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In the Lineup

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Surfing is competitive but we should play fair

Conditions were near-perfect on the afternoon of Nov. 30, Day Two of the Maui Women’s Pro at Honolua Bay, as the waves arrived like ranks of goddesses — tall, lithe and glittery gray — to be welcomed by the women surfing in thisculminating event of the world championship tour. What followed was a visual symphony. Read More

Artificial waves may eliminate more than unpredictability

Wildness is precious and vanishing fast — and soon we’ll have waves at the push of a button, as the World Surf League announced that the wave pool at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in California’s Central Valley will be added to the 2018 championship tour. Read More

The possibilities are endless when surfers inspire each other

Surfing at its finest is a private, gender-neutral communion with a force of nature. In such moments we are truly free. Read More

Function, survival both trump style in surf wear

As autumn rolls in, surfers weigh fashion versus function when out in the water. Read More

Surfer, homeless populations shift when parks close down

When evicted from one park, many houseless people shift to the next. Surfers do the same. Read More

Disasters remind surfers we’re not alone

For many Hawaii residents, the volcano-spewn gases and particles known as vog bring asthma, coughing, headaches, skin rashes and irritated eyes, but our local haze was overshadowed by the thick, toxic black smoke that blackened California skies and rained ash as far south as San Francisco Bay. Read More
 

Kakaako closure boots bodysurfers from exclusive spot

The loss of access to the bodysurfing-only break at Point Panic would be hard but bearable — if there were a time frame for reopening. The prospect of an indefinite closure made some, well, panic. Read More

Surfers miss distant waves, loved ones when ocean’s flat

In previous early autumns, Oahu’s South Shore surfers have exalted over glassy, head-high waves, but this year’s mostly flat fall has prolonged our “endless bummer” of a summer. Read More

Film charts rich heritage of royals surf haven

“Ka‘ahele Ma Waikiki,” a wonderful new film created by John Clark and Ann Marie Kirk, contains footage of Waikiki surfers in 1913 and of Duke Kahanamoku paddling out to Queen’s with his youthful entourage in the 1960s. Read More
 

Wait for glassy waves offers time to reflect

When the tradewinds relent in late September and October, we get windless, glassy, peeling waves. And sometimes, when it’s small and inconsistent, Suis is actually uncrowded. Read More

Proper sharing of waves can be tricky proposition

Summer officially ends this week, and the passing of the season brings a classic opportunity to reflect on the passing of life. Read More

Runaway seal provides reminder of inseparable kinship

Within weeks, mom Rocky was teaching Kaimana to swim and simply be at home in the ocean. Read More

Amid all-too-brief rides, joy exists in waves unridden

Everybody’s been talking, in the Suis lineup, about what a disappointing summer it’s been, thus far, on the South Shore of Oahu. Read More

Sans Souci a tradition with local moms

My mom and her best friend from high school, Auntie Pauline Kealoha, claimed the golden sands of Kaimana Beach as their own once their kids had graduated high school. Read More

New day, great wave help ease sting of discourtesy

The last time I hazarded a Sunday sesh, there was this guy waiting on the outside for the left-breaking waves while I chased the inside rights. Things didn’t go well. Read More

Surf4HUGS empowers kids coping with illness

For the 14th year, Surf4HUGS will take sick children and interested siblings out on surfboards and launch them in the waves at Baby Queens in Waikiki. Read More

Women shred stereotypes at Surf Film Fest

Whether you’re a crowd-fearing summer grumpster like me or not, a perfect place to chill is the air-conditioned Doris Duke Theatre, where the 10th annual Surf Film Festival is playing for a month. Read More
 

Young surfers catch mindfulness along with waves

The first summer swells are rolling in and, as usual, mind-boggling crowds are swooping into the Suis lineup, jockeying for position. This year, however, something’s changed. Read More

Champion surfer’s dad writes book on achieving excellence

In his brief but illuminating memoir, Chris Moore, a Honolulu-born surfer and competitive swimmer, examines his parenting successes and mistakes with refreshing candor and humor. Read More

Summer swells bring Oahu surfers together

Summer brings with it the smells of sunblock and limu, the taste of sea salt and kalbi, the cannon of a big swell, the tradewinds, warm water and the illusion of endless time. Read More

Battle scars come with surfing lifestyle

It was one of the first spring swells on Oahu’s south shore and I got careless, pitching over with my board following and nailing me in the ear. Read More

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