Champion surfer’s dad writes book on achieving excellence
In his brief but illuminating memoir, Chris Moore, a Honolulu-born surfer and competitive swimmer, examines his parenting successes and mistakes with refreshing candor and humor. Read more
In the Lineup
Summer swells bring Oahu surfers together
Summer brings with it the smells of sunblock and limu, the taste of sea salt and kalbi, the cannon of a big swell, the tradewinds, warm water and the illusion of endless time. Read more
Battle scars come with surfing lifestyle
It was one of the first spring swells on Oahu’s south shore and I got careless, pitching over with my board following and nailing me in the ear. Read more
Surfers remember lost people, waves
Most surfers ask guardian spirits to protect them in the sea and say prayers of thanks after a good wave — not just for the wave, but for all the good people and experiences in life. Read more
New grom gang needs to learn respect
It’s springtime, which brings a population explosion in South Shore lineups on Oahu. Read more
No stopping arrival of Mother’s Day, south swells
On Mother’s Day, Oahu’s south shore traditionally receives the season’s first epic swell — the better for surfers to flee our mothers, if we’re lucky enough to still have them. Read more
After 40 years, Tonggs Gang reconvenes in Waikiki
Last month, 30-plus members of the Tonggs Gang milled about, hailing one another, clapping shoulders, shaking hands and chugging beers beside tables heaped with food. Read more
Gymnastic workouts train groms to channel energy
Pure joy is contagious, and I caught some on a visit to Kid Peligro’s Ginastica Natural surf training class at the Sunset Beach Jiu Jitsu studio across the highway from the famed surf break. Read more
Women surf strong and free with support
Despite all the advances female surfers have made, the sport remains dominated by male surfers. Read more
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Air Force missile tests could impair lives of whales
The Air Force is seeking permission to fire missiles that could result in behavioral responses, such as panic and disruption of feeding or breeding, in an estimated 219 marine mammals. Read more
Saying goodbye to old friend brings reconnection
Now, 40 years later, I stood on a big lawn overlooking a sandy cove and the rocky break named Jocko’s after James Sutherland’s older brother, 1960s champion surfer Jock Sutherland. Read more
Downings take activist role in Waikiki debate
In a March 7 public hearing, Keone Downing spoke out against the state Department of Land and Natural Resources’ proposed replacement for the Royal Hawaiian groin, installed to prevent sand drifting from the beach in front of the Waikiki hotel. Read more
Surfboard leashes pose own dangers in ocean
By getting snagged on a rock or coral head, leashes have caused some surfers to have been held underwater and drowned. Read more
Surfing for fun, grandfather a grom at heart
Since he retired, surfing is Captain Cal’s job. He can be found first thing every morning at Makalei Beach Park, gazing out to the horizon. Read more
Sharks at isle surf spots generate tales of terror
When we enter the ocean, we enter the wilderness. Humans are, after all, mere visitors in this vast, mysterious realm. Read more
Couples’ love of waves matches love for each other
While you won’t find surfers handing out soggy valentines in the lineup, one might just offer you a wave. Read more
Dream day at Ehukai keeps sadness at bay
For years, catching good Ehukai was an impossible dream — work and less-than-ideal surf conditions got in the way. Read more
As more stake claim to surf spot, aloha suffers
When country breaks get enormous waves from the west-northwest, it’s possible for a smaller wrap-around swell to make it to town. Read more
Plant-based diet keeps surfers’ energy up
Green and orange vegetables, beans and tofu, nuts in moderation and grains can all play a role in a healthy surfer’s diet. Read more
Sometimes you just have to take a chance on adventure
That first day at Laniakea, I lost my board. It occurred to me, as I struck out for the receding shore, that I could also lose my life. Read more
Old names of isle surfing spots revisited by local author
“Waves of Knowing: A Seascape Epistemology” examines the profound importance of wave riding to Native Hawaiians and the negative impacts of its commodification through surf tourism. Read more
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