Mango fares well in savory dishes

When he was a kid, David Lukela liked his mango green with soy sauce and vinegar, or maybe with li hing powder.

But now that he’s all grown up and carries the title of “chef,” Lukela has upped his game.

“For my first mango event two years ago, I did a mango foam,” he recalled. This meant pickling the mango, vacuum-sealing it and cooking it sous vide (in a low-heat water bath), then pureeing and aerating it to make a foam for topping an oyster.

“It was my first year, and I wanted to make an impression.”

Whoa. Pretty fancy-pants, eh?

Well, Lukela is chef de cuisine at Beachhouse at the Moana, the steak-and-seafood flagship restaurant of the Moana Surfrider in Waikiki. It’s basically his job to wear the fancy pants.

The Moana is celebrating mango all month with mango-centric dishes, desserts and cocktails throughout the property, and the annual Mangoes at the Moana celebration Saturday.

Lukela is doing his part with three specials incorporating mangoes in lamb ribs, scallop ceviche and soft-shell crab dishes. For Saturday’s event he’s leading a cooking demonstration where he’ll mix mangoes into overnight oatmeal, fish tacos and a forbidden-rice salad.

“It’s fresh, it’s summery, it’s very bright,” he said of the fruit of the month.

But it’s also very sweet, which means he’s got to work to merge it with the savory dishes he is charged with creating. “It’s always a challenge every mango season.”

The best approach, he said, is to temper that sweetness with something acidic — he’s partial to lime juice, but any citrus or a good vinegar would also work. Then, a little fattiness helps balance the acidity that you just added, so you could add some avocado to your mango salsa, or a dollop of sour cream to your mango sauce.

Setting the fancy pants aside , Lukela offers these approachable ideas for turning this year’s mango bounty into dinner.

>> Salsa: Toss half-ripe mango cubes with lime juice and/or tomatoes for acidity and diced chili peppers for “Latin zing.” Add avocado for creaminess and balance.

>> Cream sauce: Stir mango puree into creme fraiche or sour cream (or “ghetto creme fraiche,” as he calls it). He serves this with his fried soft-shell crab at the Beachhouse.

>> Quick pickles: The brine formula is 1 part vinegar to 1 part water to 1/2 part sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil, cool and pour over half-ripe mango slices.

>> Barbecue sauce: Heat your favorite prepared barbecue sauce (Lukela suggests Noh Hawaiian Spicy B-B-Q Sauce) and add mango scraps (all those odd pieces left after you cut the neat cubes for your salsa). Simmer them together until the mango is soft. Add chilies, then puree everything together. If you feel like playing with fire, start the process by flaming some brandy or bourbon in a saucepan first, let the alcohol burn off, then add the barbecue sauce and mango. When it’s done, add mango puree “if you’re not satisfied with the mango-ness.”

>> With rice: “You can put mango with rice. Don’t be afraid.” Stir diced mango into any type of cooked rice — try wild or forbidden (black) rice for an upscale presentation — and dress with a vinaigrette to bring in those acid and fat components.

Mango-Scallop Ceviche

This dish is on the Beachhouse at the Moana menu in July.

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• 4 large (8-count) raw scallops, diced
• 3 tablespoons diced mango (ripe but firm)
• 3 tablespoons halved cherry tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons diced cucumber
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced red onion
• 1 teaspoon chopped cilantro
• 1 small avocado, peeled and sliced in 6 pieces

>> Sauce:

• 1-1/2 tablespoons yuzu juice (or substitute lime juice)
• 1/2 cup lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon kochujang (Korean chili sauce)
• 1/4 teaspoon grated ginger

Salt and pepper, to taste

Combine sauce ingredients and mix well. Let sit 24 hours so flavors meld.

In bowl, combine all ceviche ingredients except avocado; stir in sauce. Taste and add salt if necessary.

To plate: Set out 2 serving plates. Arrange 3 avocado slices in a circle on each plate. Place ceviche in center. Serves 2.

Nutritional information unavailable.